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Friday Cocktail Hour: The Old Fashioned

Published: Apr 20, 2012 · Modified: Apr 20, 2012 by Michael Ruhlman · 89 Comments

The old fashioned. Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman.

Phew! I'm exhausted from all the amazing and powerful energy generated by the food fascism post! Oy!

Time for a cocktail! (Figuratively—I've got long hours to go before I earn mine.)

Today's Friday cocktail hour is one the oldest and simplest on record. In this era of high-end mixology and complex recipes involving expensive aperitifs and liqueurs, well unless out in the stratosphere at Aviary, I like my cocktails simple. The Old-Fashioned is just that: American whiskey, sugar, bitters, over ice with a twist. All there is to it. With the range of bourbons and bitters now available, the drink itself can vary wildly and well. So even though this is every bit as simple and satisfying as a martini, it's infinitely more complex. A martini is clear and clean, an ice pick. The Old-Fashioned is complex, caramelly, bitter, sweet, citrusy. Because there are only three main ingredients, nuance is everything. Choice of bitters (I prefer citrus), amount of bitters (I like plenty), sugar-bitter ratio (I like it even-steven). Traditionally, this is garnished with a twist, but I like an actual squeeze of lemon. It’s up to you, and the hour you’re having it.  Before dinner?  Easy on the sugar and bitters; after, the sugar and bitters are desired.  Again, simplicity and nuance is what I love.

Brad Parsons, leads off his book Bitters with this very cocktail. He notes that it is predated by the "bittered sling."

“It’s referenced in the classic first printed definition of the word ‘cocktail’ from 1806 in the Hudson Valley newspaper, The Balance and Columbian Repository. …  So, from my understanding, the bittered sling pre-dates the cocktail (as a word, and as a drink), but they're essentially the same thing—spirits, sugar, water, bitters."

“Remember, too, that 'cocktail' was just one of many categories and classes for drinks. There were flips, slings, daisies, punches, bucks, etc.”

I asked Paulius Nasvytis, owner of Cleveland's Velvet Tango Room, his preferences, as the Old-Fashioned is his favorite cocktail:

“I prefer a bourbon over rye, but that is entirely subjective," he wrote. "The bourbon (or rye) should be a big and full-flavored one. Maker's Mark is my standard, but Bookers, Blantons, Bakers, all up to you. Maker's has a big flavor with deep caramel and honey notes. Other bourbons, such as Bulleit, are lighter and drier. That one is delicious on its own, but doesn't have enough spine for an Old-Fashioned. I would not recommend using simple syrup when making an Old-Fashioned." [Parsons calls for one in his recipe, fyi—M.R.]

“Bitters are becoming much more diverse. I think it is a matter of preference. Personally, I avoid the fruit flavored types, preferring more classic types. Angostura is fine for a mainstream bitters, but more esoteric ones are available and are fun to experiment with."

"And lastly, if not at the VTR, an 'Executive Old-Fashioned' in Chicago's Coq d'Or in the Drake Hotel is one of my favorite things—atmosphere, solid cocktail, history.”

Thanks, Paulius, that's what it's all about. And thanks, Brad.

Additional reading on the Old-Fashioned from Slate.

Herewith, one of the simplest, oldest, and most satisfying cocktails on record.

The Old-Fashioned

  • 4 to 6 grams sugar (about a teaspoon)
  • 4 to 6 grams bitters (about a teaspoon)
  • 60 grams bourbon or rye (2 ounces)
  • Lemon
  1. Place the sugar and bitters in a rocks glass and muddle and stir to get the sugar disolving.
  2. Add the bourbon or rye and stir.
  3. Add ice and a squeeze of lemon (or a twist or orange zest).

If you liked this post on the Old-Fashioned, check out these other links:

  • My post on Chicago, Xoco and chocolate.
  • Mike Ryan and Jacques Bezuidenhout make the Sable's bar in Chicago amazing.
  • Imbibe magazine covers all aspects of beverages.

© 2012 Michael Ruhlman. Photo © 2012 Donna Turner-Ruhlman. All rights reserved

Previous Post: « Food Fascism
Next Post: Baked Crab »

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. John Pula

    April 20, 2012 at 10:21 am

    I've found that sugar cubes are superior to loose sugar in that they dissolve faster/better.

    Reply
  2. chad

    April 20, 2012 at 10:25 am

    There went my desire to do any actual work today.

    Reply
  3. Alex

    April 20, 2012 at 10:39 am

    For those of us that don't have good kitchen scales, can someone give a translation into volume measurements?

    Reply
    • Michael Ruhlman

      April 20, 2012 at 2:41 pm

      how thoughtless of me. very sorry. have just added. and thanks.

      Reply
  4. Baydog

    April 20, 2012 at 10:39 am

    Michael, how about ounces and cubes instead of grams in your recipes? Too much thinking

    Reply
  5. kelley

    April 20, 2012 at 10:42 am

    Good to see you rockin the Hella Bitters!

    Reply
  6. Donna Feorene

    April 20, 2012 at 10:52 am

    I am a diehard bourbon lover and I firmly believe that the magic bullet in any mixed bourbon cocktail is always the bitters. Life without bitters is definitely not so sweet!

    Reply
  7. allen

    April 20, 2012 at 11:01 am

    VTR - that's the cool place that had the little bitters bottles from the Aviation cocktail post, and the one that got me started on making my own bitters. That is one cool bar.
    I am already starting my Friday cocktail hour having worked my Friday 3rd shift and unwinding with a perfect martini.
    I just stumbled upon this post after having made the martini and I don't like to mix, so one more tini and off to bed, and luckily I am writing before the second one, they become more nonsensical after two and hopefully get deleted before I discover my err's and have to appologize.
    As for the bourbon, Makers Mark is my standard for the perfect Manhattan with Angostura bitters Carpano vermouth, cherry and an orange twist. It is economical and all the flavors shine through. If I want to pimp it up I will float a little Bookers on top, I find it too hot and too high of proof for a drink on it's own.
    My personal favorite is Bakers, right in between the two giants Bookers and Maker's. My wife's is Knob Creek, you may want to trust her judgement over mine, as she has much better taste judgement than I do.
    As for the Old Fashioned, I was corrupted with orange as the go to citrus, it is more complimentary to the bourbon and goes well with the citrus bitters - orange bitters being my preference with this beverage, and a muddled orange slice with a cherry garnish.
    I know - Whaahhh, wahhh! , but it's the little things that make it.
    You could use bottom shelf crap bourbon, but the little little subtle taste differnce in bourbon really do make a differnce, as does the bitters and vermouth, and that little twist of orange and cherry. And not just any cherry, but big meaty juicy Tipsy cherries. This is where a little snobbery is totaly justifed.
    Don't fk w/ happy hour! That's why they call it happy hour!
    Cheers! And happy frikn Fridays to all!!!

    Reply
  8. Brian

    April 20, 2012 at 11:11 am

    A dash of water in there often helps muddle the sugar, and can slightly mellow the flavor of whisky. I prefer it, and it is in most bar books this way.

    Reply
  9. Faith

    April 20, 2012 at 11:34 am

    1 gram=1mL
    30ml~1 oz, so 60 g~2 oz
    5ml=1 tsp

    Reply
  10. Alex

    April 20, 2012 at 11:48 am

    Why would you ruin perfectly good bourbon with that other stuff? 🙂

    Reply
    • MessyONE

      April 20, 2012 at 3:57 pm

      I'm with you. Especially if you're talking about truly good bourbon, like Noah's Mill or Rowan Creek.

      Step away from the add-ons!

      Reply
      • ruhlman

        April 23, 2012 at 7:38 am

        totally agree. I enjoy good bourbon with one ice cube. on the other hand a ton of bitters and sugar and orange lemon and cherry go along way to dressing up well bourbon (which when I'm feeling financially pinched, and therefore especially thirsty it what I commonly turn to).

        Reply
  11. Dan

    April 20, 2012 at 12:32 pm

    I disagree on the simple syrup. Using sugar or sugar cubes can make the drink grainy and unpleasant on the palate. Simple syrup alleviates that issue.

    Reply
    • Michael Ruhlman

      April 20, 2012 at 2:42 pm

      i don't disagree, but i don't keep simple syrup on hand, and this is easier. parsons calls for ss in his book.

      Reply
  12. Elliott

    April 20, 2012 at 1:01 pm

    I love Old Fashioneds, grew up with brandy but I'll take the combo of sweet and bitter any way I can get it. And I love it with a little orange, reminds me of childhood. Sweet, tipsy childhood.

    Reply
  13. Ch

    April 20, 2012 at 3:01 pm

    Don Drapper's drink of choice. Can't go wrong with that!

    Reply
  14. Flatlander

    April 20, 2012 at 3:34 pm

    I love an Old Fashioned when it is made with rye. Bourbon does not give the right note.

    Reply
  15. Swingin' Jinglers

    April 20, 2012 at 4:07 pm

    I think I am allergic to something in bitters 🙁 whichever ones I try I get a rash on the inside of my mouth. I even bought the Hella's Bitters on your recommendation and it still happened.

    Reply
  16. Craigkite

    April 20, 2012 at 4:42 pm

    Weights and Measures: The scales are good for controlled substances, but booze has historically been a fluid(volume) measurement. When we drag out the scale to get a buzz...we will start arguing the merits of metric vs avoir du poids and soon need a calculator.

    Reply
    • ruhlman

      April 23, 2012 at 7:41 am

      agree on the whole, but for the martini, the 90:18 gram is perfection and can measure right there on the scale, jiggerless.

      Reply
  17. Paulius Nasvytis

    April 20, 2012 at 5:57 pm

    For the record, each and every cocktail at the VTR is built on a digital scale since 2007. By the drop and by gram.

    Reply
    • ruhlman

      April 23, 2012 at 7:42 am

      so how man drops = a dash?

      Reply
  18. Victor

    April 20, 2012 at 7:47 pm

    I too love this cocktail. In mine, I add a bit of orange zest to the muddle. It goes well with the bourbon, and makes me happy.

    Reply
  19. Alan Hays

    April 20, 2012 at 10:50 pm

    Great post, Michael. As always, thank you and keep up the great work!

    Reply
  20. Adam Jaskiewicz

    April 21, 2012 at 7:32 am

    I use a brown sugar cube. Saturate with orange bitters, muddle, add two ounces of bourbon or rye, several ice cubes, and a big fat twist of orange rind. Sometimes I'll toast the rind a little over a match.

    Reply
  21. twoshoes

    April 21, 2012 at 9:45 am

    hmmm...I've never had one. go figure. I generally jrink my bourbon on the wrocks. a triple is a perfect nitecap. the trouble starts when you pour yourself yet "another" nitecap.

    Reply
  22. bruce

    April 21, 2012 at 10:44 am

    I'm open minded as far as the variety of brands and flavors goes...make it with whatever you like most. But when it comes to choosing the ice and the glass...hello drink snob. They both have to be big; a double old fashioned glass needs 4oz of bourbon (so do you) andy one big ice cube melts slowly enough not to dilute too much. Amazon, Target and Williams Sonoma have the oversized cube trays you need.

    Reply
  23. Charles Curran

    April 21, 2012 at 11:32 am

    I prefer a 'Muddled Old Fasion'. Sugar and bitters, orange and a cherry. Muddle everything, then add ice and club soda. Finally lots of 'Makers Mark'.

    Reply
    • ruhlman

      April 23, 2012 at 7:43 am

      paulius of VTR suggests this version as well so youre in good company.

      Reply
  24. Tim

    April 21, 2012 at 4:49 pm

    First I read the salumi post and got hungry, now I'm thirsty...
    I've always had the "muddled" version but this recipe seems a little cleaner. Hmm... maybe I'll make both...

    Reply
  25. DiggingDogFarm

    April 21, 2012 at 6:25 pm

    I'm a sucker for anything that contains bourbon!!! LOL

    Reply
  26. Carol Melancon

    April 21, 2012 at 9:13 pm

    Rye all the way. I buy it by the case as it is sometimes hard to find. Always have some on hand for Old Fashioneds or Sazeracs.

    Reply
  27. Julie

    April 22, 2012 at 5:21 pm

    Thanks for posting this recipe. Sipping one now after being inspired by your post.

    Reply
  28. Stewart Putney

    April 24, 2012 at 2:03 pm

    Great piece and fun drink to play with. If you want to get real geeky on the syrup vs. cube vs. loose sugar question- you may want to use demerara sugar syrup. The demerara sugar would be more similar to what was used when the drink was first developed. It has a slightly deeper,smokier flavor that often plays well with the bitters. (Orange bitters for me, please).

    Reply
  29. Peter - The Roaming GastroGnome

    April 25, 2012 at 11:26 am

    What I really like about the Old Fashioned is how the cocktail changes as the ice melts, not quite like a wine opening up, but a akin to adding some spring water to single malt. I always find there's a point about halfway through an OF where everything is perfectly balanced. It's there for a moment...then gone, which of course just makes you want to have another!

    Reply
  30. Ryan Silva

    April 26, 2012 at 1:08 pm

    The drink in the photo looks like more liquid than only 2 oz + a tsp worth--barely more than 1/4c. Is that really all there is in that photo?

    Reply
  31. Neil Honaker

    April 26, 2012 at 5:43 pm

    I'm just happy its the week before the Kentucky Derby and somebody is talking about a bourbon cocktail OTHER than the mint julep! Around Lexington, KY, the muddled Old Fashioned is definitely the favorite, most often utilizing homemade bourbon soaked cherries.

    Reply
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