How to write a Cookbook. Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman
Two weeks ago, sparked by Dianne Jacobs's question about what defines a successful cookbook, I wrote this post So You Want to Write a Cookbook. But the questions raised intrigued me so much that I reached out to two editors I currently work with and respect, asking them specifically, what books that didn't sell well or make money do you consider to be successful and why. Maria Guarnaschelli responded at length and reached well beyond the question (if her name sounds familiar to you, it may owe to the fact that her daughter Alex, is the chef at NYC's Butter and a Food Network regular). Her thoughts and decision-making process are a must-read for anyone writing cookbooks, and certainly for anyone who wants to. The following—as well Lorena Jones's comments, which follow Maria's—were conducted via email:
What is a successful cookbook?
Maria Guarnaschelli: One that adds something new to the existing literature on the subject, even if it doesn’t sell (make money for the company and earn back its advance). I published two Japanese cookbooks by Elzabeth Andoh in the 80's and they had to be remaindered. No one was cooking Japanese food at the time, but the books were first rate and valuable resources for all interested cooks. I have also published here at Norton Cradle of Flavor, one of my favorite cookbooks, by Jim Oseland at Saveur, but there is not enough interest in the food of Malaysia , Singapore and Indonesia to support even modest sales. The book won two awards and is still in print, but I have always wished the sales were stronger. I also published a memoir by Fuchsia Dunlop, Shark's Fin and Sichuan Pepper, which sells modestly (and won an award) but it has not reached a wide audience. The author has since been asked by the New Yorker to be a contributor but sales are small.
Obviously I would not have a job if I published too many books that don’t make money for the company. But books like the ones I mentioned above are a source of great pride to me. They have contributed original scholarship to the food community and make me feel as if my work is valuable.
Books that are of the same caliber but make money are of course what make my role as an editor important to my employer. Rick Bayless’s Mexican Everyday and Fiesta at Rick's are excellent books and the most authoritative in the field. They sell and backlist (continue to sell every year) to Rick’s ever growing audience. Charcuterie by you and Brian Polcyn is hugely successful and has the advantage of being a surprise bestseller. When that book was published there was not a lot of interest in the subject but you two discovered an audience in America that had been untapped, and you, Michael, have been ingenious in keeping interest high on the internet. [M.R. would like to add Kathy Barrow and Kim Foster to this list!]
What I can say about my taste is that I don’t tend to sign up books that only give recipes. I want the author’s ideas on technique, culture, and ingredients. I have published two cookbooks by Fuchsia Dunlop (Land of Plenty and The Revolutionary Chinese Cookbook) which continue to backlist because the recipes are set in the context of the region and provide extensive information on methods Americans may not be familiar with. The author speaks fluent Mandarin and has studied in Chengdu . That’s another thing, I like it when an author has immersed him or herself in a subject. I have an extraordinary book coming out this fall by Maricel Presilla, a book on the food of Latin America , and the result of more than 30 years research.
Another book I published, Love Soup by Anna Thomas, represents a successful back and forth between and author and her audience. Her first book The Vegetarian Epicure was published in the 70s continue to sell, and the success of Love Soup shows how Anna has continued to respond to what her audience wants and needs. Norton published Love Soup in 2009 and it won a Beard award.
When a proposal lands on your desk, what are you most hoping to find?
M.G.: I just acquired a cookbook bought on a fabulous proposal, SEOUL FOOD by Hooni Kim, a Korean American. He owns a very successful yet tiny restaurant (Danji) in Manhattan that has earned already a Michelin star. The proposal was written by Ann Volkwein, a very skilled co-author who knows how to popularize complex ideas and a foreign (to Americans) cuisine, having co-authored many successful books, including Guy Fieri’s books. Hooni did his undergraduate work at Berkeley and finished 3 ½ years of medical school, took a break (he was always getting migraines) and went to the French Culinary Institute. And he was hooked on becoming a chef.
The proposal made it seem as if the making of Korean food at home was as easy as making Italian food. And he has already the makings of a successful platform: a large base of followers on Twitter, good word of mouth about his restaurant, and a winning personality. He also was sent to Korea every summer by his parents and goes frequently to find what’s new and to keep up his language skills. Plus, he serves contemporary riffs on Korean food as well as the traditional dishes. This told me that his book would stand apart from other books on the subject because of this element.
It’s difficult to say what makes me want to buy a proposal. Your proposal on Charcuterie made a strong case for a craft I didn’t know there was an audience for, you had a significant profile in the field, the pages you submitted contained many specific details on what the book would feature, enabling me to get a sense of the book, and the voice (very important) in the proposal was strong and exciting – as well as authoritative. I was persuaded by a very short prospectus. Finally your writing was superb.
I suppose I should say that I have to have a sense that there is a market for the proposals I acquire, even ones (markets) that I might not be aware of. If the author(s) have made a convincing case, it gets me revved up that I will be learning something new.
What are the most common reasons you turn a proposal down?
M.G.: Too many other books like it, without anything that sets the book apart. Lack of a platform of any kind.
[By platform, publishers mean some kind of promotional platform, whether TV show, restaurant, strong social media or an existing audience from previous books, preferably more than one of these—M.R.]
Anything else you'd like to add?
M.G.: I think it’s important for me to mention that I try to keep up with what I think are important trends in the field: I have signed J.Kenji Lopez-Alt’s magnificently creative book of recipes that link science to everyday cooking. He has also created a mammoth following of his work via The Food Lab. His book is long awaited.
And I signed Dave Arnold, a science and technology professor at the French Culinary Institute. He is writing a book on cocktails and he has a bar attached to Momofuku called Booker and Dax. He has broken new ground in the field of Cocktails.
------------------
I also queried Lorena Jones, publishing director food/drink/lifestyle/digital books for the past two years at Chronicle Books, which published Ruhlman's Twenty (back in stock 3/19, promise!).
What's a cookbook you've worked on that you feel is successful but was not a commercial success?
Lorena Jones: If I had to pick one book from the recent publishing that I do connect with as an editor that hasn't been a critical or commercial success, I'd say it's the Commonsense Kitchen, which has an intriguing backstory: it's born of an off-the-grid, alternative graduate school called Deep Springs in remote Nevada where a very small group of students live, work and learn together. (David Tanis was a student there.) The book is written by its past director, Tom Hudgens, and is essentially a manual for self-sufficiency in all aspects of running a kitchen. It's a thoughtful, lovingly written ode to the waste-not, want-not maxim that country cooks and professionally trained chefs know, but that most American cooks never grasp. And it explains much about cooking from scratch, imparting the wisdom of generations of farmhouse cooks, gardeners, dairymen, and butchers. I like this book's quiet style. It is the way of (real) country people. Deep knowledge delivered without fanfare. But that doesn't sell books.
What do you look for in a cookbook proposal?
L.J.: What I want in a proposal, and I believe this is a bellwether of great nonfiction books, is above all, original, authoritative, personal, passionate, information-rich writing. I don't care how small the subject—if the author is an original thinker with an ability to express his or her exploration and discoveries in original writing, the text will have a unique "voice" and will attract curious, discriminating readers. Knowing that only 10% of the population buys books, and knowing that this 10% is by definition discerning, we can expect that readership to require authors' texts to tell them something they don't know (or know well enough) in a way they haven't been told before. Publishing to that requirement should be our main objective.
I want to know an author understands and will undertake self-marketing, but I do not want a proposal about marketing. Good books are based on good content. No amount of terrific marketing can make a book excellent. And truly excellent books are lasting, which should (in my opinion) be another requirement of print publishing.
Lastly, I want to know an author is genuinely interested in collaborating. The publisher (editor) has to earn the right to collaborate on each and every book, but assuming we will earn it, we want to know the author wants the same thing we want—a book that reflects the author's work in the absolute best-crafted way, which is not achieved in a vacuum.
For me, and every hands-on editor I know, I think that sums up the key indicators we're hoping to find in the best proposals.
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Many thanks to these two editors for their time. I hope you'll check out their books, especially the two pictured above as successful books that didn't have strong sales: that means something.
If you liked this post on How to Write a Cookbook Part II, check out these other links:
- My post on Eastern North Carolina BBQ this recipe is also found in Twenty.
- Pastry chef Gregoire Michaud's blog shares his journeys through the culinary world.
- Hand drawn recipe for tom yum kung or Thai hot and spicy shrimp soup.
- Leite's Culinaria has a interesting post on Uruguayan Good Luck Gnocchi.
© 2011 Michael Ruhlman. Photo © 2012 Donna Turner-Ruhlman. All rights reserved
Do you think there's a place for book from a blog like mine? It's a bit idiosyncratic, more text than recipe.
Love these series of posts. Help me process, get inspired and focus on what is important. Quality of body of work. I do own a copy of James Oseland, Cradle of Flavor. I buy book for the recipes and stories they tell. I will buy cookbook without many photographs even though I love food photography. I have Paula Wolfert's Food of Morocco. When I wanted to get out of my comfort zone and wished to explore other cuisines with flavors that would appeal to me, James Oseland's book struck a cord.
I think Jones has a great point about being a collaborator with your publisher. Each house has a different "personality" or corporate culture and if you're just shopping your proposal for price or ease, it could get ugly. A good publisher will challenge you and make you a better writer. If you find yourself arguing for a mediocre standard, you're sinking.
I'd say do your research about the publishers and not just take any offer because it's an offer. But be assured, it it's a hit, they'll take credit and if it's a stinker, it's your fault!
Thanks for these posts, Michael. What an exciting time to be a cookbook fan! For authors, the possibilities are broadening to get your work out there thanks to social media and the internet itself. (though, as Hank Shaw commented, nothing beats driving cross country with a pickup truck full of books!) For publishers, it must be hard to sift through the chaff, because it does seem like everyone wants to write one these days...luckily out of that comes some amazing gems like the books pictured above. And while E-books are fine, for cooking and books about food, nothing will replace a real tome you can hold in your hand, there will always be a market for it!
Great post - Since it is likely that some publishers may be reading these comments, I would like to plead for them to please add more cookbooks to the 'Look inside this book' feature on Amazon, I have used it on numerous occasions and found it very helpful!
Also, there is a recipe index (with photos) for Cradle of Flavor here: http://egullet.org/p1561305
So informative. Thank you Michael. "food for thought".
Very interesting and informative. I'm very happy to hear that Kenji has a book coming out - I'll certainly buy it.
I am currently in the middle of Washoku - by Elizabeth Andoh. I hope I have added to one more book sold on the balance sheet for Ms. G. Plus I had occasion to see the cover of The Girl and The Pig and loved it for all the exact reasons the author was hoping to convey.
Michael, your generosity of spirit is inspiring. Thanks for gathering these thoughts. They're very helpful for aspiring cookbook authors such as myself.
Does anyone know of a good cookbook about Burmese cooking? My SIL recently returned from San Francisco where she ate at Burma Star and said the food was so special there and unlike anything she had ever tasted. I would love to know more about the Burmese cuisine, but there are not many restaurants or cookbooks about it.
I think this topic has been too overanalyzed. I think that a successful cookbook, like most good books, come from authors that can demystify any subject to explain it. This is like good teachers-a good teacher takes any subject and can explain it to seventh graders. That is where I loved Ratio out of ALL of Michael's book. Instead of a "prescription" approach (a pinch, etc), the ratio is an idiot proof approach that will get people EXCITED about cooking. It got me excited as heck. Most cookbooks, for the average person with some cooking ability, are simply too difficult. On top of that, most people cannot cook Thai or any other Asian cuisines without preparation. Mike found a niche and filled it.
I definitely have an appreciation for books that offer "original scholarship." Cradle of Flavor is one of my favorite cookbooks for that very reason, and Shark’s Fin and Sichuan Pepper was a great read. I have Andoh's books on my wishlist but haven't read them yet. While I do think there are way too many cookbooks and books of food writing out there and way too many on their way, I would welcome any new books that contribute to the topic of food in ways that the books mentioned here do.
I am in the middle of Washoku by Elizabeth Andoh so I hope that puts a check mark in the credit side of the excel sheet for Ms G. I recently got to see the cover of the Girl and Her Pig and it conveyed to me everything the author hoped it would. I am curious since all I went through this side of the border to partake of the Charcutepalooza and am wondering if it ever occurred to either you or your publisher in the making of Charucterie, the numerous possibilities of non-professionals attempting feats of home-curing and subsequent horrible health outcomes from these quests?
Granted, a cookbook writer's greatest challenge is the development of a distinctive manuscript. One that is unique, market worthy, and has 'platform' support.
But there are two hurdles to success. One being the fact that, as Lorena Jones points out, 'only 10% of the population buys books'; and by the way that number is falling.
But more significant is the fact that our primary and high school systems have produced at least one generation of culinary illiterates.
Who is going to be buying cookbooks in a few short years when the potential market knows nothing about basic cooking skills and figures great food is either 'fast' food or corporate supplied home replacement meals?
Anthony Bourdain briefly discusses this dilemma in his book Medium Raw (Chapter 6). In the not too distant future, my hope is that either you, he, or some other prominent writer discuss the implications of this problem in more depth in book format. Because if we don't get the kids engaged with what real food is all about then writing and publishing cookbooks will be the least or our problems.
For me, one of the keys selling a cookbook is for the cooks to be able to find it when they want/need it. Example: I just went in to buy Twenty from Amazon, and it is only available from resellers. Wanted to order it today and get it tomorrow to start working with it over the weekend. It is currently the only Ruhrman book I do not have on my shelf, but I do not like paying folks premium prices for used books.
Are we awaiting a new edition? Will it be available soon?
In Michael's 2/21/12 post "So you want to write a cookbook" he says that Twenty is in it's second printing and was supposed to arrive the week of the post -- that Amazon has been out of stock for months.
His twitter feed said 3/19. He also says he promises. Not under his control.
I loved this post and the previous how to sell a cookbook. I went out and picked up a copy of The Commonsense Kitchen right after reading the article. I would love to see more off the grid suggestions because they are, predictably, harder to find.
I just bought both of the books recommended as undersellers, and I've never heard of either of them. Perhaps all they need is a platform where they can be featured.
Tom Hudgens, author of The Commonsense Kitchen, also writes The Whole Hog Blog.
I had an opportunity to visit Deep Spring College (it’s in California, but just barely) earlier this winter to learn a bit about their operations for my blog. It's a fascinating place where they provide 70% of their own foods for a community of 50. Later I toured a farm nearby and learned about some of the rare garlic strains they still raise out there at the college.
Deep Springs raises organic produce, chickens and eggs, dairy cows, beef, pork and lamb. It's as close to self sustaining as anything I have seen in the region. Locally we can purchase some of the produce from Deep Springs.
I plan to go back when the garden is in full swing to see what else is growing in the remote desert valley besides high academic pursuits.
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