"Ramp" by Donna Turner Ruhlman.
Because I love this photo and because they're here.
If it weren't already apparent at your local Farmer's Market, Kim Severson spells it out in her story about weather and food in today's Times. Specifically, the long winter we've had, the late spring, and what it means for what we have to eat that's grown nearby. I'm doing a special private dinner tomorrow at Spice on Cleveland's West Side, whose chef, Ben Bebenroth, is one of the city's most outspoken chef-locavores. He had been planning to put the season's first asparagus on the menu, but they simply haven't grown yet. So rather than buy asparagus grown in California or wherever, he's amending his courses for an all-Ohio late spring menu. Here at our house, we're roasting young chickens, lots of eggs, and sautéing sunchokes.
And of course cooking with ramps, which grow wild and abundantly here (thanks, Donna!). Chop them up and sauté them in a little butter, then pour in beaten eggs for scrambled eggs with ramp bottoms, folding in the greens at the last minute (add some goat cheese if you have it). Sauté mushrooms hard to brown them, then add the ramps, deglaze with white wine, and finish with butter. Grill or braise them as a side course. Make use of what's plentiful around you.
(A reminder: Mac is running a Mother's Day special, 40% off all Dalton-Ruhlman tools. Use the discount code "mothers" until noon on Friday.)
If you liked this post, take a look at these links:
- My recent post on Mother's Day Kitchen Tool Sale.
- Why I Cook, a classic post.
- Spring is here, and Hank Shaw shares his recipe for pickled ramps.
- Another spring favorite: how to cook morels.
© 2014 Michael Ruhlman. Photo © 2014 Donna Turner Ruhlman. All rights reserved.
My first glimpse of a ramp - I know they can't look this good in person if Donna took the pic, she makes everything look better.
I've heard they go great with eggs and pickled. Will seek them out at pike place market, they were sold out last time, never saw one until now.
We just recieved 20 lbs of Michigan Ramps! Earthy Delights is our yearly source for them. I pickle them, add them into frittatas and even use the green tops for garnishes at service. I love the hard texture of the bulbs and that allium cross-section of garlic-shallot-scallion flavors. Garlic scapes will be coming around soon enough, and those make a wicked pesto or bruschetta topping.
Say yes to this review and we will help an made up critter!
Guess that means I won't be heading to Spice for dinner tomorrow night! Say hi to Ben for us. Love that place.
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We're so lucky to have ramps here in Ohio!
http://www.playinwithmyfood.com/home/2014/4/28/ramp-fritatta-with-asparagus-and-potatoes
Oh my goodness! Amazing article dude! Many thanks, However I am going
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Brandon, did you try clicking the RSS link at the top of this page?
Also you could type in this short URL: ruhlman.com/feed
This seems to work for me using NetNewsWire.
Lastly you could type that in a text editor, and paste it into your reader when you subscribe.
Good luck, Carolyn
I think it interesting while ramps are being hailed as becoming endangered by states' DoAs, they are being promoted as a "new and desirable ingredient." for the masses. An important and regular foraged vegetable of southern Appalachia, they are getting harder and harder to find. There are many of us that re-propagate ramps, but concern of over-foraging does have a few of us raising concern.
On the other hand.... I cannot tout any more the fantastic flavor of ramps. We have recently used ramps as an aromatic for baked trout, ramps in eggs, ramps to augment the flavor of other veg, and ramp pesto in and on everything. Including wood-fired ramp pizza...
We encourage those that can to continue responsible ramp harvesting and propagating.. And support... from all that enjoy ramps!
The discount code still doesn't work.
sorry, emilia changed the code to "mothers" plural, good for the remainder of the day.
We had some young ones on for Easter, cleaned and battered, then fried in oil. A tasty treat.
Wonderful photo! With our spring earlier than usual, the ramps (wild garlic) in England are already in bloom but still plenty of juicy leaves. My favourite dish is an intense green soup with croutons topped with a fried crevette.
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