This is an old-fashioned Manhattan. With jarred maraschino cherries like my uncle Jon loved. But make a good one. With Fabbri cherries and good rye. Straight up. The skewer holding the cherries is an emblem of my childhood. Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman
I’m old-fashioned, I admit, and this is another Friday cocktail post devoted to classic cocktails. It’s not because I’m nostalgic (though I am). It’s because classics are classics for a reason: they’re good. There’s a reason you don’t have a Swanson’s TV dinner in your freezer but will never tire of a well-made Martini. My dad was a Martini man. He was also an Ad Man (who actually looked a lot like Don Draper), a creative director at a Cleveland ad firm where I interned the summer after my freshman year of college. He was a gin drinker. I still remember my first revulsion at gin. I asked him what he had in that plastic cup of his. He told me it was a Martini. Go ahead, he said, taste it. I did. How on earth could he drink that stuff? I thought. Tasted like the worst medicine you could invent. He chuckled, had another sip, the light turned green, and we headed up Cedar Road toward Fairmount in the new 1972 convertible Ford Mustang.
His brother Jon, eleven years his senior (my dad was a “gift” to his 39-year-old mother, both of them born on FSF’s birthday, I’m happy to note—thanks, Rose and Mike! Glad you didn’t take precautions!), Jon was a Manhattan man. But like my father’s martinis, Jon’s Manhattans were made with the cheap stuff and always on the rocks. I’m pretty sure it was a practical decision. They simply drank too many of them to make it practical to serve them straight up in a chilled glass. Jon would have wavered his hands around his ears and called that kind of drink something for fairies. That was his generation.
He was a big, bellicose man, CEO of an engineering company, a sailor who loved to race, brilliant, difficult, and fiercely loyal to and proud of his family. I never went in for the sweetness of the Manhattan when I began to have actual cocktails. I loved the austerity of my father’s gin Martini.
So it was my dear Uncle Bill, Jon and Rip’s Uncle Bill, actually, Rose’s brother, the man who taught me the supreme value of a potato, quoted in The Making of a Chef, the man who guided my literary leanings and showed me by example what a genuine intellectual was made of, it was he who made me my first Manhattan, at his home in Santa Barbara. Donna and I had arrived terribly hung over after a late, late wedding celebration south of Los Angeles, and that Manhattan was nectar from the gods.
The Manhattan is indeed a superlative drink when made properly. I ordered one earlier in the week at Nighttown, a Cleveland Heights, walking-distance bar that features some of the best jazz in the country. The bartendress made it with Bulleits. I didn’t ask about the vermouth. The person I was meeting asked have you had the Manhattan at Velvet Tango? No? Then you haven’t had the best Manhattan.
I bought a new vermouth, just to try, pictured above (I didn’t have time to drive out to Solon for the preferred Vya vermouth, sorry Paulius). He, Paulius, owner of the VTR, also recommended Amarena Fabbri cherries. The only place he knew to get them in Cleveland was Gallucci’s, but they were out! So we had to go with the crappy ones that are better on ice cream. Here they are made palatable by the lovely metal skewer that belonged to my father and was part of that whole sixties cocktail. I love it. I was able to buy the most important ingredient though, Old Overholt rye whiskey (Jon drank VO, most of his 74 years). And given the cherries, I’m going with the good, if ubiquitous, Angostura bitters.
I’m in Manhattan now, so a Manhattan it is, and I raise it to you, Jon and Bill, with great lasting memories and thanks.
If you liked this post on the Manhattan, check out these other links:
- My recent posts on the Berkshire Martinez.
- Is rye whiskey back in fashion in the United States?
- Learn how to make your own maraschino cherries.
- Headed South? Then visit the bourbon trail in Kentucky.
© 2012 Michael Ruhlman. Photo © 2012 Donna Turner-Ruhlman. All rights reserved.
The Perfect Manhattan
Ingredients
- 60 grams rye whisky (preferably Overholt) or a good bourbon (2 ounces)
- 30 grams sweet vermouth (preferably Vya)
- 5 sturdy shakes Angostura bitters (2 grams or so)
- 1-3 Amerena cherries (or those candy-like ones in the sundae aisle of your grocery store)
Instructions
- In a 2-cup measuring glass, combine the whiskey, vermouth, and bitters.
- Fill the measuring glass with ice and stir more or less continuously for 90 seconds (I hate the shaken drinks with all the shattered ice floating in them). It’s fine to pause while you retrieve your glass from the freezer.
- When the ice and alcohol have commingled for the appropriate time—you want about 30 to 40 grams of water to melt into the Manhattan—garnish it with the cherries.
The Manhattan is my favorite cocktail!
My grandmother was a lover of them also!
~Martin
I'm loving your classic cocktails - favorites of mine too. Cocktails are a great subject for you, too, because they're all about ratios.
Not to be pedantic, but "Perfect" in a Manhattan — or any cocktail — means equal parts of sweet vermouth & dry vermouth. So the recipe for a "Perfect" Manhattan is 60 grams of rye, 15 grams of sweet vermouth, 15 grams of dry vermouth. Oh, and the bitters of course.
But I do agree with the sentiment — a "perfect" Manhattan is made with rye, and usually n a 2:1 ratio of rye to vermouth. And bitters aren't optional. The cherry garnish is. Enjoyed the post — thanks.
You are correct. The recipe above is NOT a Perfect Manhattan.
Have never HEARD of drink mixing sweet and dry vermouths! Sounds odd!
Details and sources please!
A cocktail recipe book by Salvatore Calabrese called Home Bartender's Guide has the "Perfect" Manhattan. Equal parts dry and sweet vermouth. Very nice.
What do you think of Jim Beam rye? I tend to get it for mixing.
Just google "Perfect Manhattan recipe". There are many sources. I cannot find where it originated as opposed to the standard version you have above.
Michael, here are two sources that I find quite good. The first is "Vintage Spirits and forgotten Cocktails" by Ted Haigh. And the other is "The Craft of the Cocktail" by Dale DeGroff, who is regarded by MANY people as one of the most influential bartenders in the world. Both of them have a recipe for the Manhattan, and both of them have a note about a a Manhattan made with both sweet and dry vermouth being called a "perfect" Manhattan.
great tips on pie crust! I made my first pie crust earlier this year and it is itinmtdaniig. But you're right, it's not as difficult as it seems. I'm going to try your ratio one next I think. I'd love to try these hand pies as well. 🙂
Classic cocktail Fridays = OK with me
"Fill the measuring glass with ice and stir more or less continuously for 90 seconds (I hate the shaken drinks with all the shattered ice floating in them)."
So do I, but when making a mixed drink with fruit juices, sugar, syrups, etc., shaking is necessary. The answer is to double strain; place a fine-mesh strainer on the glass, and pour from the shaker using a julep strainer. The results are smoooooooooth.....
This is a great post! I have my regular, much-loved pie doguhs one for sweet treats and one for savory, but I have to try your simple recipe because yours turns out fabulously light and flaky! These hand pies are a dream partly because of the flaky dough, partly because of that fabulous filling. Must try!
My wife's drink of choice, and one of my favorites as well. We like to garnish with a lemon peel instead of the maraschino cherries, which usually end up forgotten in our fridge. Luxardo maraschino cherries are also fantastic.
Manhattans were (and are) always my Dad's drink of choice. His were always Canadian with cheap vermouth and day glow cherries. I make mine with 2 parts Bulliet Rye, 1 Part Dolin Rouge, a good 3 dashes of Fee Bros. Old Fashioned Bitters and home made Maraschino cherries (pitted black cherries quickly brined to crisp, then mascerated for a while in a mix of equal parts Luxardo Maraschino and vodka - sometimes with some vanila bean thrown in for good measure)
I love the shattered ice in the proper cocktail, like an Aviation.
I like my Manhattan more like 3:1, with Bulleit Rye and Angostura or occasionally Regan's Orange bitters and home-preserved cherries.
The bigger question: do you eat the cherries? Some purists say you never eat the garnish, but I didn't survive a Southern Baptist upbringing to throw away cherries soaked in whiskey.
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Ruhlman, you captured the essence of my childhood in this sentence:
He chuckled, had another sip, the light turned green, and we headed up Cedar Road toward Fairmount in the new 1972 convertible Ford Mustang.
Sometimes I really miss the 70s.
Oh Jen I think you may have a Kitchen Bootcamp that I won't be able to participate in. I stink at pasrty crusts! I've made it so well known on my blog that people keep sending me no-fail pie crust recipes .LOLYou'll know that I'm a firm believer in the bootcamp project if I actually post something with pasrty crust dough in the recipe. Wish me luck.By the way, those little pies look too darn cute AND delicious.
Sazerac 18 YO rye, Carpano Antica vermouth, two to one, at least 3 shakes of Angostua's or Fee's Barrel Aged Bitters, and a Luxardo cherry.
That's what I will ask for if ever I am in front of a firing squad.
I was going to say exactly this, but was beaten to it. Well played, sir.
P.S., Overhold is a great starter Rye, but please quickly move up to Bulliet Rye, or Rittenhouse Bottled-in-Bond, without even having to fork out for the 18 yo.
If anyone is fortunate enough to find Templeton rye, it is the best thing you can put in a Manhattan.
A hint for anyone looking for Templeton. When you're driving through Iowa stop at any small town convience store a pick up a few bottles. Don't look for it in larger towns, though.
The waiting list for TR at the local shop in Ames is 18 months or more, but I can drive 45 minutes away and find a half dozen bottles on the shelf at a small town Casey's.
I like mine with Brandy. Will definitely need to try Rye next.
"He chuckled, had another sip, the light turned green..."
Now that's classic.
Hey Pierre, congrats on Kitchen Scraps! I'm so beihnd on the news, but thrilled for you and can't wait to see how Alice Eats comes along P.S. Do you sell signed copies of KS or maybe we could do an old fashioned Cap College book swap?!? If not I'll be buying a copy of your book on Amazon soon
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I need a good cherry for the Manhattan and an orange peel at least, sometimes a slice for garnish.
I've tried the syrupy Amarena Italian cherries and find them just that - pricey syrupy candy, a little strange for a cocktail, good minced with a hearty blue cheeze on a cracker but not so good in a drink.
Much better are the Tipsy cherries soaked in whiskey. They're big and meaty with the stem attached. Stem is a must, lots of fun when you can learn to tie them in a knot to impress your mate. Takes a bit of practice but simple once you learn the technique of making a circle and inserting the knob end of the stem with your tongue, bite one end of the stem and pull out a knot. Guaranteed for some hot action that night!
You can also make a much superior cherry with your own fresh tart cherries in season and a bottle of Luxardo cherry liquor. Just fill them in a canning jar and top with Luxardo.
I like to add a bit of cinnamon, vanilla bean and clove, let them sit for a month and they're better than any store bought, last forever and they go great minced in a pork roullade or any pork dish. The juice makes an interesting Aviation cocktail in place of regular Luxardo.
I have tried a lot of bourbons, Makers being my fav, but never tried Rye. I'll seek it out. I'm always looking to improve, but some things can't get much better,
I have yet to find one better than the Makers, Angostura good cherry, orange peel and good vermouth(Punt E Mes, Carpano, or Dolin) in an ice cold glass.
Cheers & happy Friday to all!!!
It's funny how people get locked into things. There's no rule that says a Manhattan must be made with Rye. Particularly within the space of a blog such as this one, it should be obvious that cocktails (drinks in general) are culinary. Ingredients should be chosen and paired thoughtfully. A sweeter Manhattan could be made with Makers Mark, and perhaps Carpano. A nice bright and flavorful one with Bulleit Rye, Dolin, and Wormwood bitters. So, just loosen up, people! Get creative. Stay out of the ruts.
I love this drink. And I loved the night that we sat out on the deck in PA and drank them. Good times, good drinks. This is the new Anderson Family cckatoil (2nd to the G&T of course!)
Its like you read my mind! You seem to know so much about this,
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with some pics to drive the message home a bit, but instead of that, this is great blog.
A great read. I will certainly be back. cheap marlboros
I make mine 2 parts Rittenhouse BIB, 1 part Dolin Rouge, 3 dashes Peychaud's Bitters and 3 dashes Regan's Orange Bitters. I don't garnish it, but Luxardo puts out a jar of cherries that are the only things I would garnish with.
For me, it's the cocktail that all others are measured against.
Wouldn't it work to just measure out 35 grams of ice and mix until it melts?
Funny, I never saw that skewer before in my life, but as soon as I saw it my mind took a trip back to all the trinkets of my forgotten childhood, like the cast-iron dog ashtray in my parents' room and my Mom's perfume bottles that I used to open and sniff when I was a much tinier man.
Then, I read about the sip of a Martini at a red light and was again transported back to a time when gas was cheap (though not for long) and cops were not concerned with the contents of your cups.
Oh, well. As Homer Simpson says, and Little Steven has him repeat at the end of every Underground Garage broadcast, "Now I have to face stupid reality again."
I love these cocktail posts so VERY much!
That is just beautiful!!!I had a bit of a bndeer last night (started with beer, ended with wine always a mistake), so i can not really appreciate the imagined taste (right now, it is imagined as tasting like stomach bile) But honestly, tomorrow afternoon I am thinking this will sound great!So, if we do stupid things, why are they called adult beverages???
well, you tempted me engouh to try this this afternoon. i've been looking for a crust recipe that uses something other than shortening (tried coconut oil in one recipe and failed:)used approx 8 oz. white flour and 4 oz. wheat flour and the results were a.ma.zing!!! thanks for a new pie crust recipe!
Tracey Yes, you should be able to ssbtuitute butter for shortening Just be sure to work with it when it's cold. Also, butter contains more water content than shortening, so you may have to adjust the amount of water a bit. Be sure to add it a small amount at a time!
This drink reminds me of my grandfather. It is all he drinks. Here is his recipe: whiskey to about there... vermouth to about there... cherry with some juice... stir with finger... consume... repeat 5 times.. .sleep.
Very nice Evan! I posted a blog on New Years day with my fimlay's homemade egg noodle recipe. We cut the noodles by hand. They're delish! Angel hair is my favorite pasta cut, so I might have to spring for the pasta attachment don't think I could hand cut them so thin and delicate.
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I am enjoying your Friday cocktail posts. While I am too much of a cheapskate to go to a bar and therefore do not drink much in the way of cocktails (beer and wine are more to my taste), I do appreciate a well grounded explanations and the discerning comments of your readers. Too much time and energy is wasted on fashionable novelty without an appreciation and understanding of the classics.
Now if you will please excuse me, I have to go out and yell at some kids to get off the lawn.
Templeton rye - really good. "40 Creek" - great!
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I love this post. Even though I won't go near a maraschino cherry - this is not a snobbery thing; it has nothing to do with the connotation of a maraschino cherry, I don't really like cooked or dried cherries either - and sometimes order things on the rocks just to avoid martini glasses... As pictured, you're fine, but some places don't seem to get it - they fill it up, and then how do you walk? To be fair, I'm not really classy enough to order mixed drinks very often, but when I do, a good Manhattan tends to be it.
You drink beer Mr. Ruhlman?
I absolutely LOVE these Friday cocktail hour posts. This one especially reminds me of my Grandfather's very nicely fully stocked bar (complete w/ pink elephants) and how he would make the perfect concoctions. I raise a glass to you Michael for allowing me to reminisce and to my Grandad- and good memories.
Take a look at a Negroni
Ever had Bonal, Michael? It's a amaro/vermouth cross-breed of sorts, and makes for an interesting twist on the Manhattan.
Along with the 'Sweet Manhattan', there is a 'Dry Manhattan', Dry Vermouth', with an Olive. Then the 'Perfect'. Half sweet and Half Dry, with a twist of lemon. Either one might satisfy the not to sweet drinkers.
I don't know if this exists outside my home, but try the same recipe with 15 grams sweet vermouth (I also prefer Vya) and 15 grams Fernet Branca. I call it "Marie" after my grandma because it smells like a grandma.
My other favorite Manhattan variation: Koval White Rye, citrus bitters, and Cocchi Americano! "White Manhattan" I guess?
I'm with allen, tying knots with the stem has been a go to trick since college. Now my kids (11 and 13) want the cherry from my drink so they can try and tie the knot.
In the 70's my Dad came home from a Christmas party at his favorite bar and gave me a handful of plastic skewers, explaining that for the party, drinks were only a dollar apiece. He finished with "Your father saved a lot of money tonight !" He was a Manhattan man and I miss him.
There's a fantastic book on cocktails called "The Fine Art of Mixing Drinks", by David Embury. Its a funny, witty, opinionated read, and the man was a true connoiseur as well as an inveterate booze hound. Written in high lawyerly prose, it is a true bible of cocktails, from 1948. Embury's ratios are on the stiff side, but they are the best I've ever tried. His Manhattan: 5 parts American whiskey, 1 part sweet vermouth, dash of Angostora bitters. Perfection.
OK ... no time to read the above comments but here goes: I am a devoted Manhattan drinker. Angostora bitters, 2-3 drops, Seagrams 7 (has just the right amount of rye blended in) 3 oz, I have tried them all and i still like Cinzano Rosso (more citrus notes) 1 oz. and here is a find ... GSF brand cherries ... remarkably crisp and kinda tart.
Have you ever considered creating an ebook or guest authoring on other blogs? I have a blog centered on the same topics you discuss and would really like to have you share some stories/information. I know my visitors would value your work. If you're even remotely interested, feel free to shoot me an e-mail.
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