Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman (click to see more pix on her site)
Regular readers know I’m a veal stock evangelist.
Veal stock is one of those magical ingredients that can transform a mediocre cook into an ohmyfuckinggodthisfoodisamazing cook.
Really, it’s that powerful.
My first piece for Gourmet magazine was about veal stock. My veal stock recipe is in the Gourmet cookbook.
In Elements of Cooking, a 242-page book about food and cooking, there is but a single recipe: veal stock.
I once asked Jacques Pepin about veal stock and he said he didn’t much make it. Ingredients weren’t at his store in Connecticut. I found this amazing, until I realized something important! It was Jacques Pepin! He doesn’t NEED veal stock. He could probably make Miracle Whip taste good.
But for the rest of us? Slipping a little veal stock into our food has the same effect as Clark Kent slipping into a phone booth.
Want a veal stock recipe—I’ve got one for you. Want to make a small batch? Follow same instructions, only pour a quart of water over a pound and a half of roasted bones instead of what recipe says, and an onion, two carrots, a bay leaf, and a tablespoon of tomato paste during the last hour of cooking.
So, I’m Mr. Veal Stock and I get a tweet from someone asking, "Well, what do I do with it now?!"
I’ve never really addressed this, so thank you, distant tweeter. I will answer this question and put forth a challenge to anyone reading this blog. Come up with an innovative use for veal stock, share it in the comments, and I will send each of those with the three best ideas your choice of The Elements of Cooking, my book Ratio: The Simple Codes Behind the Craft of Everyday Cooking, a set of my All-Strain reuseable kitchen cloths (note: the OpenSky site will be up and running by the end of the week), or copies of my two apps, Ratio for the iPhone and Android smart phones and Basic Bread Baking Basics (for the iPad and, soon!, the iPhone). Your choice.
My amazing assistant Emilia and I will judge for flavor and innovation. I once watched my mom order a bullshot in the garment district in Manhattan and was astonished that you could use beef broth in a cocktail. If someone can come up with a delicious cocktail using veal stock, you go immediately to the front of the line (be forewarned though that I am not a fan of the rubbing alcohol referred to in this country as vodka, but hey, feel free to change my mind. And if you are a fan of vodka, try OYO, in fact the only vodka I’ve ever had that has actual and good flavor (made by Middle West Spirits from Ohio red winter wheat).
How I Use Veal Stock:
Its main use is as a base for meat sauces, in culinary school they’re called derivative sauces. Veal stock has the magical qualities of humility and generosity—it brings out and expands other flavors without calling attention to itself. So if you simply sweat some minced shallot and add some veal stock to the pan and pour it over any meat or fish, it will make the meat or fish a thousand times better. Swirl in some butter before pouring and make that two thousand.
So the same for pasta, and the pasta is amazing. Reheat ravioli in that shallot and veal stock elixer and you have a world class pasta dish (if you made decent ravioli that is. Veal stock with pasta is amazing. Veal scallopini with lemon, angel hair with veal stock has lead to many post-prandial pleasures.
Braise beef, veal or chicken thighs in veal stock and you will have an amazing braise. Thick the sauce with a roux or a cornstarch slurry if you wish.
For a big white meat fish—cod, grouper, halibut, sea bass—sear some sliced or diced mushrooms (really sear them so they brown, don’t steam them), add shallot, white wine, reduce, add veal stock, simmer, swirl in a little butter, and you have an amazing mushroom sauce for the fish.
Ideas in Food, the fabulous team of Alex Talbot and Aki Kamozawa, tweeted a great idea. Braise a veal breast in water with onion, carrot, tomato paste, garlic, bay leaf. Have the veal breast for dinner with some of the sauce and strain the rest to keep on hand as veal stock. You’ve built stock making into you regular meal (I’ve actually put a similar technique in my new book, due out this fall).
I’m going to end here, though I could go on and on about the wonders of veal stock. I will write more should we have people take up the challenge for innovative veal stock uses. There are no rules except for coolness and deliciousness: the three best suggestions have a choice of their desired prize as noted above.
Update: The guy responsible in part for the direction my life unexpectedly took, about to begin teaching at the Culinary Institute's new Singapore campus, the guy who TAUGHT me how to make veal stock, who marked my answer wrong when I tried to define remouillage on the day of the storm, took the time to comment below. Thanks, Chef! Hope you have a blast on the other side of the world!
If you liked this post on Veal Stock, check out these other links:
- French onion soup recipe from the Smitten Kitchen
- My recent post on chicken stock
- Ann Watson of Maisonneuve covers poutine, a classic Canadian dish that has brown gravy, cheese curds, & fries
- The blog Cruditas shares "A brief history of sauce espagnole"
© 2011 Michael Ruhlman. Photo © 2011 Donna Turner-Ruhlman. All rights reserved
VITELLO SALTIMBOCA ROMANO
4 VEAL CUTLETS (1/2 INCH THICK)
2 CUPS VEAL BROTH
1 CUP WHITE WINE
6 GRINDS OF PEPPER
3 ½ TABLESPOONS BUTTER
SAGE AND PROSCUITTO TO GARNISH
REDUCE AND BLANCH VEAL JUST BEFORE THICKENED. REMOVE AND FINISH. ADD SAGE AND PROSCUITTO AND COVER WITH LID TO STEAM.
I'm sure someone else will come up with this and I don't know how "cool" it is, but you can use good quality veal stock to make your own, not-oversalted bouillon cubes. Take at least a quart of good quality stock (veal stock works especially well because it has a lot of natural gelatin) and slowly simmer it, ideally in a saucier-type pan. Keep slowly simmering it. As it boils down, you can add more stock if you really want to pump up the flavors. Keep simmering (this does take awhile) until you have a really dark, concentrated sludge (Sorry. "Sludge" is the best word I can think of.) and then let it cool in the pan.
Later, after it's cooled down, it will have solidified into a gelatinous mass that will, if you've simmered it long enough, maintain the shape of the pan. Peel this out of your pan and carefully cut this into cubes and you have super-concentrated veal stock that you can add into any liquid-based soup or sauce you want.
Warning: These won't keep forever in the fridge, but they will keep quite awhile and you can freeze them too. But, before you do that, toss them in cornstarch and get them evenly coated so they won't stick together in storage. This is one of the handiest tricks I know and it will also work with chicken stock.
I prefer veal stock to any other in my minestrone. It makes a velvety base with a distinct meatiness, all of which makes a simple vegetable soup stick to your ribs (in a good way!) Here's the link to the minestrone as vegetarian fare. Just replace the veg stock with veal for delicious results. http://www.mrswheelbarrow.com/?s=minestrone
I must admit I don't have any "creative" uses for veal stock in my play book. But on the line of meat juice cocktails, a few ideas pop into my head.
I could see veal stock making a nice addition to a bloody mary. I'm sure there's a clever bloody cow pun in there somewhere.
2 parts V8
1 part veal stock
a few ounces, liqour of choice probably vodka, but rye might be interesting)
dash worchestershire
celery salt
hot sauce
lemon twist....maybe stir with a slim jim.
Someone (I have no idea who), has already come up with the "beef/veal stock in a Bloody Mary," I think. It's called a "Bloody Bull," if memory serves.
I actually have some veal bones coming my way next month from a local farmer. I have been trying to decide what I want to do with them. I ended up deciding I will probably make a stock which braise a veal cheeks with various aromatics (probably similar to a Sauce Robert). Once the cheeks are done I will serve the cheek on a egg yolk cylinder with a soft cheese like texture (structured yolk cooked sous vide at 70C) drizzled lightly with the sauce. Herbed crispy potatoes on the side.
Do you have a chamber sealer? If not how do you seal the egg to cook it.
No chamber sealer. I've found the yolks cooked at this temperature to be very workable, so I cook in the egg, separate the yolk and white then mold the yolks into whatever I need.
Make veal stock cubes!
I have a very nice potato vinaigrette with veal stock. Boil one medium potato (peeled) i like touse russet. Then add cooked potato, one diced cooked shallot and some really good red wine vinegar to a blender. Blend with about half a cup of veal stock ( just enough stock to make the blender move. Then add a cup or so of good olive oil taste for salt and pepper. Serve warm with any protein, I like fish.
Here is the photo I tried to attach...
http://www.melhill.com/food_porn/WB/veal_stock_4576.jpg
bill cosby would approve
looks perfect. why would bill cosby approve?
because it's like jellllloooooooo
because it looks like a jello jiggler...he was the jello spokesman for some years.
Use veal stock in any form of bread making! We used to make a Guinness-Veal baugette that was used as part of a cheese plate. Make sure it's cool and gently salted in process. And even more so if you are using a sourdough starter, the enzymes can take the bread it a great direction!
very cool idea
Used a ~60/40 ration of "water" (or Guinness) to stock. And had to slash more aggressively to make sure the bread didn't grow in an odd way.
Why is veal stock so much better than beef stock?
because it's so neutral. Beef stock tastes like beef, veal stock takes on enhances other flavors.
Very interesting. Deffinitely going to give this a try.
I love using veal stock to make a nice rich ragu alla bolognese. I lightly brown a pound each of ground veal, beef and pork in a bit of olive oil. In another pot I sweat about 10 carrots, 3 onions and a few celery ribs. Before these brown, I add them to the light browned meat. At this point, some folks will add tomatoes or water. I cover it with a veal stock and simmer for several hours stirring now and again so nothing sticks. The stock thickens as it reduces and adds a great rich flavor.
Add me to the list of veal stock converts!!!
Thanks Michael
Made from humanely raised, pastured veal, of course.
veal bones are now commonly available at farmer's markets.
Granted I've never made this but if I were to vealify a cocktail, here's what it would look like. Basically a twist on the gin martini. I'll call it the Vealtini? too much?
2 ounces Beefeater London dry
1 ounce roasted veal stock
spritz of dry vermouth
squeeze of lemon
One bay leaf floating on top.
Garnish with a cocktail onion or lemon rind swizzle.
Basically trying to mirror the ingredients in the stock itself while adding a pleasing herbal aspect to the party with the gin and bit of acid with the lemon.
beef and gin go so well together, i don't know why this wouldn't work great. will have to try.
Have you tried Core vodka made from apples near Chatham, NY? It's quite lovely, and I say that as someone who doesn't like vodka.
Another good one Dubrovka Buffalo Grass Vodka from Poland - actually has a little bit of a flavor, unlike standard potato or wheat vodkas.
That's a great Vodka!
Not sure that your name is also accurate but the accurate one is Zubrowka. You can also make your own by putting a few shoots of Buffalo Grass into a nice Polish vodka and letting it sit for 3 months or so.
haven't heard of, will have to try.
Pot o' Beans:
Sweat some onion, garlic and carrot in some bacon fat. Add beans (soaked or not) in with the veg and stir around until covered with the fat. Salt and pepper to taste. Cover with Veal Stock and simmer for a couple hours. Serve with a bottle of your favorite hot sauce or crumble some bacon on top.
how is a stock different from a soup? Except for the obvious that it is strained.
Stock usually is made without salt.
stock is meat bones and veg, broth has more meat, and i would define it as something delicious to eat on its own, without your having to do anything with it. soup has multiple ingredients.
Rehydrate dried mushrooms and use the mushroomy veal stock in countless applications. The liquid component of a risotto or barlotto; a mushroom sauce by reducing the stock slightly with wine and herbs and mounting it with butter, or in a vinaigrette by pureeing the mushrooms and stock and adding vinegar, mustard, and oil.
I know it isn't innovative, but I use veal stock whenever I want something to be a bit more luxurious. So last Thanksgiving I used veal stock in my turkey gravy mixed in with brown trurkey stock. It developed an amazing consistency. Recently I've been adding it to bolognese along with white wine and milk. The bolognese recipe I use (basically Batali's) doesn't call for extra stock, but I find that if I add the stock and let it cook down that the overall textur eis better. The extra liquid adds extra time to the process, but so what.
I think that's the most important quality. It makes everything, just, better, deeper, more satisfying.
Good post Michael. I'm enjoying the comments as much as the blog!
Poached eggs anyone???
A bit extravagant perhaps, but the flavor is divine...
Michael: Why do you not use celery in your stocks? Curious
I don't like the flavor it adds to chix or veal, but I do like it in beef stock. celery is salty and has bitter notes, stocks should have vegetable sweetness.
I love to make rillettes with veal stock. I used to make the chicken rillette recipe on epicurious, but I've since switched to using veal and veal stock. Its so good.
great idea, especially because so rich in gelatin.
The easiest and most delicious (but not especially innovative) pasta ever:
Cook some angel hair until very al dente
Render some diced bacon (or pancetta), remove crisped bacon, saute some diced shallots in rendered fat until translucent, add minced garlic and saute a few mintues more. Deglaze with a bit of dry, crisp white wine. Add about a cup of veal stock and a knob of butter and reduce for about a minute. Add bacon back in and drain and add pasta (reserving a bit of pasta water to add to sauce) Cook together until pasta just softens, sauce thickens and glistens. Toss with a bit of a nice sharp dry shredded cheese, a few tbsp of parsley, and some lemon zest and eat.
I think veal stock and pasta is heavenly, and can never go wrong by adding bacon!
This sounds delicious!
If it's still cold in Cleveland, give this drink a try:
Mix:
3 1/2 oz hot veal stock
2 1/2 oz medium sherry such as an amontillado
dash of cognac or Spanish brandy (optional)
pinch of salt
If the weather has turned warm, I got nuthin'... sorry
My Answer: Pho Bullshot
4 oz Pho Broth
1 1/2 oz Vodka
Squeeze of Lime
Dash of Worcestershire or Fish Sauce
Dash of Rooster Sauce (Sriracha)
Awesome cheap Pho is everywhere in Seattle, so good leftover broth isn't hard to find. But it's basically a veal stock and you can make your own. Just change up the aromatics: instead of carrots, tomato and bay in the stock, use 6" or so of toasted fresh ginger and grill a couple onions a bit before adding them. Add a quarter cup or so of fish sauce. Add a bouquet garni of several toasted star anise and cloves for about half an hour. Strain and season to taste with salt and sugar. If you're actually making pho, boil a hunk of chuck in there for several hours as well.
If you use the straight broth for the drink it will be a little cleaner and less complex, as opposed to using leftover soup that already had basil, cilantro, rooster sauce, etc mixed in it.
The drink can be hot or cold depending on whether you heat the broth first, but I like it hot on a cold day. Garnish with a sprig of Thai Basil if you're feeling fancy, or have some leftover from the Pho.
The potato braise. Fingerlings, halved, placed in wide sauce pan. Add veal stock to almost cover. Then add smoked paprika, couple pats butter, pinch salt, bay leaves, minced garlic.
Cover, bring to a boil. Reduce heat, simmering until potatoes are done.
Uncover, turn up heat, reduce until glazed and/or the potates begin to saute in the butter.
Garnish with chives and maldon.
I've never used veal stock, but I imagine it would be an even better replacement (for veal stock people) for the beef stock I use when making certain things. I always add some beef stock to my BBQ sauce. It seems to enrich and soften the flavor and texture. I reduce it to it's essense and use it when I caramelize onions for certain dishes. I also use chicken or turkey stock when I make sauerkraut. These things use just a little, but a little goes a long way for the flavor and texture it lends.
My veal stock usually sets on its own, but to be sure a little gelatin does not hurt. Along the line of those Chinese soup dumplings (forgot the name), the veal stock can be flavored with some parmesan rinds and maybe caramelized onions and then strained. The stock can be set in spherical ice molds until very firm. These balls of veal goodness can be encased with egg pasta dough like a ravioli and boiled. The filling would melt and the soup enevelopes can be served with a mix of sauteed mushrooms preferably including some porcini....that would be a nice dish.
How about an Italian michelada? Micheladas generally have Mexican beer, lime juice, salt, and Maggi seasoning, which is vegetable based, but adds umami. Served over ice with a salted rim.
For an Italian variation, you could use Peroni beer, a shot of limoncello, a shot of veal stock (probably with salt added), over ice. Maybe add a little lemon zest to the salt for the rim of the glass. The difficult part would be getting the veal stock to emulsify in the drink since it's usually congealed when cold. Might need to put it in a cocktail shaker with the limoncello and ice before adding beer.
I don't have any veal stock right now, so I can't make it, but please feel free to experiment and get back to us!
Veal Salt
2 Qts Kosher (or Fleur de Sel) Salt
1 1/2 Qts Veal Stock
Fill a sheet tray (I bought a hotel pan for this) with the salt and pour the Veal Stock over the salt. Mix together. Put in oven at the lowest possible setting (mine only goes to 180F) overnight. In the morning, using a large spoon, mix the salt. It should have a cake-y, crumbly, sand like texture (almost like brown sugar). If there is any excess liquid return to the oven until it evaporates. Once all the liquid is evaporated leave out on the counter for a day before storing. This will help it dry out more. From here store it and fill a salt shaker with it. Now you have a million uses for it; my favorite is to use it to salt fries. Once there cooked, toss in a bowl with chopped parsley and veal salt for an incredibly umami filled snack item that you just can't put down!
Maybe thicken some veal stock with egg yolks and use it as a mother-icecream-base for savoury icecream. Make a nice derivative and use as you would use a normal pan sauce. With the added effect of warm/cold. (Disclaimer: I have not tried this, I don't even own a proper icecream-maker)
Now that I'm thinking about it.. You would have to make a meaty veal stock, too much gelatin wouldn't be nice.
I think veal stock ice cream sounds very strange! but who knows?
I always turn my stock into consomme and glace. Its quite easy, just take your very gelatinous stock and freeze it in ice cube trays or a shallow hotel pan. Then pull it out and place it in a cheesecloth or coffee filter lined colander. Now let it sit on the counter for around 12 hours or in the fridge for 1 day. You'll have a crystal clear liquid on bottom and a rich glace on top left in the colander. Refrigerate and use as needed.
I feel that stock as is can be too powerful for using on veg or risotto so consome works better.
this is a cool technique for clarifying. i first read about in nytimes, an article by mcgee.
I heard about it from Blumenthal, Nobody ever talks about using the left over gelatinous liquid as a glace though. Maybe use the consomme for sorbet. A quenelle on top of steak tartar sounds good..
Re: Jacques Pepin. The book by Pepin that every bibliography says "must be in every cook's library" is his "La Technique." I quote from the English translation:
"Classic Brown Stock, half-glaze and glaze (Fond brun classique, demi-glace et glace de viande)"
and, first entry in the ingredients list:
" 10 pounds bones (one-third veal, one-third chicken, one-third beef) cut into 2-inch pieces"
Michael: I would truly love to read your comments on this master, in his masterpiece, calling for exactly THOSE basic ingredients for the "classic" brown stock and basis for demi-glace etc.
And, though I am probably still crying in the wilderness, I would love to hear someone's professional confirmation or denial of the importance of feet in, especially, chicken stock. They provide so much of that gelatin that seems to be so highly touted in basic veal stock that adds so much without being self-assertive. I make a lot of pork stock, too, always with lengthwise split trotters that are easy to find in my neighborhood. I love pozole. And, Michael, didn't I read you saying somewhere that Thomas Keller always adds a foot (feet?) to his stock? Let's hear something from the pros on the subject of feet!
Calvistan
feet have tons of collagen, the protein in connective tissues which breaks down into gelatin, giving stocks great body. This is the reason to add feet. very valuable in stock. and yes the french laundry veal stock includes a calfs foot.
Veal stock ice cream croquettes, breaded and deep fried. Lightly season the breading with something interesting, like cardamom, cumin, and coriander.
innovative!
I'm in NE Indiana, and have not had any luck trying to find bones or off pieces of veal from which to make stock. The only option available is paying upwards of $10/lb for osso bucco shanks, are there other options or suggestions?
On a related note, why is it so hard to find domestic lamb? So much that I find is AUS Lamb. (got spoiled by <$1/lb ground lamb in the mid-90s when I was in college.
Veal bones are difficult to find for most of us. Big distributors like Sysco will always oblige, but your best bet is to source local meat producers in your area. A good place to start is your county Cooperative Extension. They will at least put you on the right track.
Fresh domestic lamb is seasonal, i.e., RIGHT NOW. Here in western NC it's widely available through early summer. Again, I'd suggest contacting your local food co-ops to find the small farms raising terrific livestock. You're in prime farm country, George - check it out!
I wish that being in "prime farm country" would be a benefit, but the bounty isn't readily available, and the consumer isn't generally considered the prime customer. It seems as though there is greater availability in larger cities. I will try again, but stymied at this time.
can you try asking your butcher? try ordering a veal breast, these make perfect veal stock.
One of the really cool things I've done in the past is basically a combination of a chicken baked in bread dough and a soup dumpling. Basically, you take some diced up thigh and marinate it in reduced red wine and aromatics, then take it out. Add aspic (reduce you're veal stock down), some mushrooms, seasoning, and wrap it in bread dough and fold to form a boule. Bake it normally, and when it's done and rested for thirty minutes, cut it open. You end up with a nice little steq, and a bread bowl.
Has anyone ever tried the veal stock from the freezer section at Bristol Farms? I do make my own stock, but would this work in a pinch? Or not worth the price?
busy day here and have only had time to skim, but look forward to reading thoroughly--some awesome ideas already, great cocktail ideas, love the idea of it in bread, a vinaigrette, veal stock salt, too cool.
Why the roasting of the bones? Keller doesn't do it, and you end up with a very clean stock and demi..
roasting bones gives it a roasted flavor, more complex caramelly. white veal is more neutral and can be used more widely, but you have to do more to it.
Have only scanned these responses, but just want to say that a "bullshot" is not a Bloody Mary with beef or veal stock, it's a shot of whisky, or whiskey, in beef or veal stock alone. No tomato juice at all. And every good Bloody Mary has beef or veal stock as an ingredient, it adds flavor, depth, and fullness to the the drink. Not a new idea, either. I learned it from a very old bartender back in the 1960s.
I've always heard that a bullshot was vodka and beef broth.
Me too.
Oooh, could you use the veal stock cubes to make soup dumplings? The natural gelatin and all. Or spread the cubes onto a sliced beef sandwich, like a au jous condiment.
Try a veal stock bull shot w/OYO. Call it a calf shot?
Or add tomato juice for a bloody calf. Add some wasabi as well?
On the savory front, linguini, in a cream/veal stock sauce w/OYO and smoked salmon?
Caesar salad, with pork belly braised in veal stock?
Poach the eggs (using your giant spoon 🙂 in veal broth and serve over wilted spinach, frisee or in a variation of eggs benedict?
Use it to add mouth feel to white bordelaise sauce or bechamel?
Use instead of alcohol to deglaze pans wheb making a pan sauce for chicken or pork dishes?
Or go modernist cuisine, skim the fat off the veal stock, mix with tapioca starch and you have powdered veal stock. Sprinkle on all sorts of things like roast chicken. Or blend with fresh grated parmesan and put on top of salads?
actually, since you've got access to Veal parts for stock in Cleveland area, what is a reasonable price to pay per pound?
i buys a big fat veal breast for 11-12 bucks. good for one full meal and 1/2 gallon stock.
I make my own chicken stock all the time, but my one time attempt at veal stock was not very successful as it had too much thyme in it, and I didn't think, when used, the taste was neutral at all. But I do have access to veal bones so I will give it another try.
A "staple" I keep in my refrigerator because I think it enhances so many dishes is a little container of duxelles.
try pairing veal stock with your duxelles, awesome!
How about freezing stock into ice cubes and storing them in the freezer in ziplock bag. This way the stock is easy to store and available for use tablespoons at a time whenever you need them! Maybe even use them to cool your Bloody Mary?
Veal salt sounds like a good idea. And what's your thoughts on using a premade stock such as Knorr Swiss ? They make a decent demi glace and in a pinch it convenient. I know so many high end restos do this as well, but they won't admit to it.
stay away from knorr and all bases!
For the opposite perspective on stock, here is Marcella Hazan:
"Water is the phantom ingredient in much Italian cooking. One of my students once protested, 'When you add water, you add nothing!' But that is precisely why we use it."
I think Ruhlman has done a blog post on this exact thing - using water, especially if the only other alternative is canned broth or flavor cubes.
Luskova Vodka!! Stood up in our blind tasting against Ketel one & Stoli. Buy it at Giant Eagle for a lot less than K1.
Veal stock+ Morels+ Cream.
Nothing earth-shattering but running high on the deliciousness scale. Inspired by my dad's recipe and very similar to the Croûte aux morilles you'll eat in the French Jura region. Without the veal stock, the recipe turns bland. It works best with dried morels as you get a smoky taste inherent to the dried mushrooms. If you use fresh morels, skip the soaking step.
Soak 4 ounces of dried morels in veal stock (overnight in the fridge or 2 hours in warm stock). Remove the morels and rinse them if needed to remove grits and sand. Filter the stock through a coffee filter (works great!) or leave the bottom liquid of the gritty stock. Simmer the stock adding salt, pepper and a shallot cut in 4. Then add the morels to cook for 10mn. Make a roux with butter and flour, add the filtered veal stock and a touch of white wine. Add morels then heavy whipping cream. Let it simmer for a few minutes while frying slices of stale bread in butter (rustic country bread or baguette will do well). Serve the morels and sauce on top of bread.
I haven't made veal stock for a long time ... Probably because I usually go overboard and make too much. I actually bought a 60quart pot specifically for making it.
The most important things to make from Veal Stock is Glace de Viande and Sauce Veloute Ordinaire.
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The Veloute is a mother sauce and can be used to make a large number of classic french sauces, as well as thicken stews and soups ( it's traditionally thickened with a light roux )
The Glace is reduced until it sets like Jelly ( even at room temperature if you reduce enough ) ... I usually pour it into ice-cube trays and then freeze them in a bag once set. Throw a cube in any sauce or dish and it transforms it into heaven.
A few times I've riffed on packet noodles by setting up a bowl with some blanched vegetables, some fresh cooked noodles ( tossed with some oil to stop them sticking ) some very thinly sliced raw meat. and diced Glace. served by pouring in some just boiled water and it will melt down the glace, cook the meat, reheat the noodles and veges and give the recipient a beautiful noodle soup.
How bout diced demi mixed with salmon tartar for a cold surf and turf
Rabbit stock is also excellent, IMHO.
I make a soup crasse with breadsticks, a pungent cheese like talleggio and veal stock. It's cooked down one ladle of stock at a time until it is like a thick cheesy stew. I then use a topping for steak or veal scallopine often with carmelized onions.
I've never used veal stock before, but I've tasted it's wonders. I'm curious if a splash of veal stock could enhance bar food.
I would love to try some buffalo wings with a bit of veal stock. 2 to 1 Louisiana style hot sauce to unsalted butter, a splash of tabasco and some veal stock?
Maybe great, maybe not. I'd like to see.
it enhances everything!
Nice and interesting reading.
and Michael Obertone thanks for receipt 🙂
I use my veal stock to make a Veal Cheek and mushroom Risotto
First I saute dry shallots, porcini mushrooms a touch of garlic and chopped rosemary in a pan
then add the risotto then cover the rice with veal stock and let reduce adding more stock as the risotto cooks. Season as necessary. When the risotto is done. I add in sliced veal cheeks (that have been poached keeping the liquid to add to the veal stock later) then finish the risotto with a tablespoon of butter and marcarpone cheese.
Such a great post at exactly the right time. I go back to teaching Skills 1 - Day 1 - on Monday here in Singapore. I'm going into my office soon and will immediately link this post to my lecture notes for class discussion. Thanks all for helping to re-inforce stock's importance, versatility and especially, it's relevance.
Innovative uses? As a base for steak sauce by adding ketchup and worcestershire sauce. As a finish for a stir fry of beef, lamb, or pork by combining it with some hoisin sauce and/or oyster sauce. Add to Gazpacho to thin it out a bit, give it some body, and enrich and support the vegetable flavors.
When I want to make "veal stock" at home and can't find reasonably priced veal bones at the super market, I buy the least expensive cut of tough beef, some neck bones if available, a pig's foot or fresh hock, and a couple of chicken thighs. I'm not close to a copy of Larousse right now, but I believe that Pepin was speaking of the "pre-Escoffier" days when cost, for the French aristocracy, was not an object. A Jus de Viande would contain Veal bones, Beef rump, stewing hens, and pigs feet (or some eclectic combo such as this) and be simmered for hours or days. The resulting liquid would then be reduced to a "sauce" consistency without the need for a roux. I may be mis-quoting, but I think that Escoffier said "the use of thickeners is a "false economy"".
Veal stock based Jello shots...aka...
The Carne Asodomizer.
1 6oz. package plain gelatin
2 cups best quality veal stock
2 cups 100% agave Tequila
1Tbs Ancho Chili Powder
1 Tbs Orange zest
1tsp. Lime Zest
1/4 tsp. Chipotle powder
1/2 tsp. salt
Mix the gelatin, chlii powders, salt and zest together, add Hot veal stock, whisk to combine. When cooled to room temperature, add tequila and pour into individual 1oz paper cups. Assemble on sheet pan. Place in fridge overnight.
The following evening, call your friends over to party. Lie to them about what their eating and get hammered. Done.
Seriously, Dude, I love Jacques Pepin, but do you really think Anything or ANYONE could make fricking Miracle Whip taste good????? Yetch
Bloody Mary “Bubble Tea”
Serves 4 people not ready for another day of Mardi Gras Parades
The quintessential Sunday late morning hang over drink. The Bloody Mary has legions of fans and just as many variations. The devotees swear by the medicinal and almost black magic properties that the beverage possesses in exercising the demons from your head. It instills a vigor back into one’s step and gets you ready for yet another day of reveling right when you thought another day’s worth of sin was too much. Feel free to substitute into the garnishes any number of vegetables and pickles or even a boiled shrimp and a raw oyster for that extra potency that one might require in the latter era of HIS life.
Bloody Mary
1 bottle Fine Vodka
1 bottle Tomato juice
1 bottle Tabasco
1 bottle Worcestershire
1 jar prepared Horseradish
2 Lemons cut into halves
Sea or Kosher Salt
Fresh cracked Black Pepper
Firm Veal Demi-Glace cut into 1/2 inch cubes
1 jar of each Pickled Okra, Pickled Green Beans, Pickled Quail Eggs
4 stalks of Celery
Pour 2 ounces of vodka into a highball glass that is over flowing with ice. Add 3 ounces of tomato juice to the glass with 4 dashes of Tabasco, 2 dashes of Worcestershire, 1 teaspoon horseradish, the juice of half a lemon and a pinch of salt and pepper. Use a long spoon and stir very well. Stir in 1/3 cup of your veal demi jewels. Impale an okra, a few green beans and a quail egg with a cocktail pic. Place the highly decorated pic into your beverage and plant the celery stalk down into the ice. Place a large mouthed straw into the libation so that the luxury of the demi-glace and tickle your tongue. Serve and repeat as needed to help your guests revive their sense of good taste.
Molasses Whiskey Bull Smash
Serves 4 young men in need of some chest hair
1 Lemon (cut into halves, then cut each half into quarters)
8 sprigs of fresh Sage
8 sprigs o fresh flat leaf Parsley
4 ounces Molasses
6 ounces rich Veal Stock
1 Bottle Fine Kentucky Bourbon
Place 1 of the quartered lemon pieces into a Boston Shaker glass with 1 sprig of sage, 1 sprig of parsley and 1 ounce of molasses. Muddle the ingredients in the glass. Place a few large cubes of ice into the shaker glass and pour in a shot of veal stock and a shot or so of Bourbon. Shake the glass a good 15 times and strain into a rocks glass that is over flowing with ice. Garnish your beverage with a piece of lemon and one sprig of sage and parsley.
“In good times people want to drink, in bad times people have to”.
Me
As others have mentioned, my veal stock is gel cold, so warming it helps it combine with the other ingredients in this recipe for toast. I use the least creamy butter I can find, more of a baking butter. It can be completely melted into the sauce or not. Salt on top.
toast with veal stock jam
1/2 cup jam (apricot, blackberry, apple, lingonberry)
1 Tablespoon veal stock
1 teaspoon spirits (brandy, whisky, orange liquor) or water
I Tablespoon butter, small cubes
4 slices bread, toasted
pinch coarse salt
when you mentioned making veal stock with veal breast in lieu of bones my first thoughts went to petit sale aux lentiles, the similarity being using the cut of meat used for the stock in the final dish. as veal makes me think italian & i've recently been intrigued by country cooking i thought to substitute the veal breast for the slab bacon & borlotti beans for the lentils...
braised veal breast w/bolortti beans
veal stock (prepared with veal breast)
veal breast (from above)
dried borlotti beans (i can never find fresh)
roughly chopped shallot
minced garlic
bit of fresh thyme
salt/pepper to taste
pancetta tessa lardons (homemade thanks to charcuterie!)
knob of butter
1. prepare veal stock using veal breast (reserve breast when finished)
2. prepare your borlotti beans (soak them if your into that, i usually do) stagger your cooking times so the beans & are finished just after the stock so you have time to strain/prepare. drain beans.
3. preheat oven to 450.
4. divide your veal breast into portions & toss it the hot oven to get the edges crisped up a bit and add texture, let rest before serving.
5. in a pan (large enough to hold beans) over medium heat cook up your shallot, thyme & pancetta until the pancetta starts to crisp up nicely.
6. add your garlic & cook until fragrant.
7. add beans, a ladle or two of stock & a knob of butter & let it simmer for a bit.
8. serve the veal breast over the beans
not the most innovative dish but a good, comforting meal...the kind of cooking i find myself drawn to lately.
I actually used some veal stock ( made in the pressure cooker the day before ) last night for easter dinner. I cooked Jugged Rabbit ( Rabbit stew thickened with blood and liver ) and added about a quart of the veal stock during the cooking.
link to the dish with photos ... http://xesla.ro/wordpress/cooking/jugged-rabbit-for-easter/
just the finished dish ... garnished with cilantro flowers .... https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/DFQt_hxrbwAkqBh3GS1tRg?feat=directlink
Like many of the others, I make veal stock, then reduce this stock down to concentrate the flavours and pour into ice cube trays and freeze. They're great for making a quick pan sauce. One of my favourites for game or duck is equal portions of a berry jam/jelly, really good balsamic vinegar, one cube of stock and salt & pepper to taste.
Put it in an ice cube tray with tooth picks and have veal popsicles once it warms up
Making demi-glace is reason enough to make veal stock, ten times over. A great sauce elevates many dishes and it's not something a lot of people can do well, sadly. Pan fry a steak, while it rests saute shallots, mushrooms and capers in the same pan. Add demi, a splash of cream and chopped parsley. Makes people cry it's so good. Classic and stupid simple, love demi.
Maybe it's off-topic and I don't realize due to language-barriers, but: When would you add meat to your stock? And why? Or rather: Why don't you?
My husband (who's the chef in the house) taught me to use more meat than bones if making stock (or "fond", as we call it). But you use just bones. Am I talking about something completely different?
bones and cartilage are for body (protein/gelatin) meat gives if flavor. when I say bones i mean meaty bones. if you just use bones stock tastes like bones, horrid.
I use veal stock to make a luxurious barbecue sauce for pulled pork - adjust recipe up or down depending on the amount of meat you need sauced.
Prepare a good, dark roux with drippings from your smoked pork shoulder (ahead of time if need be), then:
sizzle up two small diced onions in butter or oil until golden, then toss in some chopped garlic (to taste; I like a lot) and let just barely brown. when the garlic is almost done, hit the pan/oil with a teaspoon of red pepper flakes and let them sizzle in for a few seconds
deglaze pan with a half cup of apple cider vinegar
Hit the onion/garlic/vinegar with 2 cups of tomato sauce, another half cup of vinegar and a few cranks of fresh black pepper and bring to a simmer, then hit it with the immersion blender until pureed. (or it could be rustic and left as-is)
add 1 cup of brown sugar and stir until dissolved. add 1 cup of veal stock and stir until melted in
add spices that you enjoy in barbecue. I use: Cumin, Paprika, Ancho chili powder, mustard powder, white pepper, sriracha, black pepper and whatever other spices suit me at the time. Potentially cinnamon, nutmeg, Old Bay, cayenne, marjoram, ginger, allspice, etc.
let these simmer in and fully develop flavors for an hour or so
add your roux, slowly whisking in to taste, and spoon or squirt to taste on servings of pork (or whatever other meat you have prepared)
How about a sformato of veal stock? Reduce the stock and enrich with some parmesan rinds and cream, then thicken with a roux and mix in the eggs. Serve warm with croutons, a gremolata and aged balsamic. Also good with seared mushrooms, a vegetable purée, sauce mornay...
I'm having a hard time finding veal bones.....are beef bones a reasonable substitute?
not really. can you order a veal breast, with bones, cut into three inch pieces? or veal breast and cut yourself. or don't even cut it, just roast and make stock with whole thing. after three hours in the pot, pull off the meat, add to tomato sauce for great pasta ragu.
wow - totally missed this contest - gives my wife and I another project if we still have time to enter....
totally missed this challenge - gives my wife and I another project for th weekend - if we can still enter of course
I really like that you don't put peppercorns in your stock. I see their inclusion in so many recipes and wonder if the authors have ever tried it without. I find that they give the stock a bitter edge. People have looked at me like I was crazy for suggesting this, but then I noticed that the stocks sold at Boulette's Larder in the Ferry Plaza Building in San Francisco ($15 per quart, if my memory serves me correctly) are made without peppercorns. I did a bit of research, which led me to an interview with the proprietress, a few years ago, who stated that she too does not use peppercorns, for the same reason. I read a while back your comment on celery and have stopped putting it in my chicken stock. It's an excellent suggestion, for which I thank you, heartily. I have had such a hard time sourcing veal bones. As a young bride in NYC years ago, I picked up a big bag, gratis, from the kind butchers at the Jefferson Market, every week and made and used gallons of the stuff on a regular basis. I assume your contest is long over, but my tip for veal stock is to use it instead of water and instead of chicken stock in any cooked savory dish (with the sole exception being chicken soup, and then sub 1/2), whenever possible. ;o)
Michael: I usually add any chicken parts I have on hand to the pot when I make veal stock. Is this sacrilege or just fine for home cooking?
I used to buy just veal bones, but the results weren't terrific. Also, I had a hard time getting them. I had to magically show up on a day they were butchering veal.
Veal breast was my saviour. It's much easier to find, and every time I go it's $0.99 a lb. More expensive than the bones, but they're full of meat! I get them in about 2 inch slices where I go, and they look like U's.