Fresh coriander, photos by Donna
How fast this summer is receding in my rear view mirror is reflected in the ciliantro that, for all my travel and busyiness, I have let go to seed. Yet there are glories even in being remiss--the fresh coriander seeds that lends so many savory preparations a huge jolt of flavor and crunch. Fresh coriander seed makes a great garnish on rice, in salads, on meats, in sauces. I particulary love it roughly cracked and used liberally with black pepper on any grilled meat. If you grow your own, you can pick it when it's still green, almost fruity and a little chewy with that same flavor burst.
We're ensconced now in an extraordinary big old house outside Great Barrington in western MA, preparing for the onslaught of a teaming brood, the entirety of Donna's immediate family and their mates (gad zooks, 19 in all, with one infant and a toddler—what to cook?!). Had a wonderful meal last night at Xicohtencatl, wonderful service, excellent mole, but now have to cook. This splendid old dwelling is aptly named the Nut House, and our clan will no doubt do the place justice.
So a week of Berkshires air and and leaping from forty-foot quarry ledges and early evening cocktails, wet towels drying on fences in low sun, meat over flames, night caps, surreptitious starlit couplings and sleeping in. Then, with a deep breath, it's back to 20 Techniques galleys and testing, finishing Salumi, more frequent posting here (!), and always more cooking. Always cooking. Hope everyone is reveling in their summer and embracing the bounty of August gardens and giving in to the restorative relaxation these weeks can and should bring.
Getting ready to head to a farm for their fresh pickin's hope to get great corn and tomatoes and whatever else looks great. Will poke around the kitchen to come up with a tian or two from the ingredients found. Lazy weekends lately, reading, cooking, cooking, reading.
And totally agree with: where'd the summer go?
If I knew they'd be so pretty I wouldn't have plucked all those flowers off my cilantro.
I've never used fresh coriander seeds. I like the parallel you've drawn between summer receding to fall and fresh cilantro going to seed. There is something to be miss and yet, something great and surprising ahead. Happy eating for the 19 of you!
Thanks for posting this - we've always composted our bolted cilantro - not anymore!
On one hand I love it when the coriander and fennel start to go to seed. Beats having to buy the stuff and it is a wonderful reminder of summer during a long cold Ohio winter. On the other hand, when the plants start to bolt and go to seed it is sad because it means another beautiful summer is coming to an end.
On a happy note, the fall is going to bring a happy occasion, my wedding!
FIrst chanterelles here. Fall's on the way.
Lots of memories of the Berkshires here.... I remember ordering a hamburger in Stockbridge home of Norman Rockwell..... the thing was huge and delicious and very friendly. (not superfillling).
You can spend sometime at the Berkshires just eating some good old american fare. Love New England and plan to revisit some day.
We're having a bit of Autumn in August here in western Washington, where we've dropped down into the low 60s this weekend, accompanied by rain and wind. A chicken is marinating in the fridge in preparation for coq au vin tomorrow.
But, of course, gardening fun has not yet stopped. Winter gardens must be grown, and I've got Brussels sprouts, carrots, parsnips, rutabagas, cabbage, kale, spinach, onions, and so many more things in the ground for Winter -- and I'm looking forward to turning them into kraut, into pickles, and into rich, hearty Winter meals.
Fall sounds refreshing, but the Summer will be lingering here for awhile yet in the South. I am working on canning and preserving lots of the Summertime fruits and vegetables. I am certainly looking forward to the first apples and pumpkins in the farmers' markets and hopefully some cooler temps to go along with them!
With all that, I hope you at least found time for a picnic with the kids at some of the outdoor concerts the Berkshires is famous for? And if so, tell us what you brought to eat.
"Surreptitous startlit couplings and sleeping in..."
I thought you said this was a vacation? Aren't you supposed to be vacationing and cooking for those infants and toddlers and everyone else, not amusing us with all this alliteration? Do you ever sleep?
My coriander went to seed in April (south FL weather is a bit different and doesn't follow the usual seasons).
Here's my post on the coriander 'fruit' or 'berries' as I'd like to use in a menu description eventually.
http://chadzilla.typepad.com/chadzilla/2010/04/coriander-fruit.html
Waiting to rig a frame with shadecloth to create a more formidable space in my yard for delicate herbs.
What else can be done with the berries? pickling? frying? strictly for aromatic punch?
Thank you for this great post!! Great pictures too!!
Where would we be without the beauty of coriander?
Bridget Davis ~ The Internet Chef
Australia
That's pretty cool, I've actually seen corriander in those stages. neat.
I loved letting mine go to seed. I harvested most of the seeds (and let a few fall for some surprise cilantro next winter).
Not in any way a chef. Love food and am a neophyte cook and, if you go to my website, blues singer and lover of pre-War blues music. Have loved reading your books, as well as those of your friend and sometimes nemesis, Mr. Bourdain. That, I'm afraid, is all I have in the way of a contribution.
By letting them seed you have a jump on your next pastrami
I was litterally JUST about to go out and yank out my bolted corriander. Now I'm going to use it for supper! Thanks, Michael!
Whether you grow your own coriander and let it go to seed, or you buy the seed in the store, consider doing what Indians do with coriander seeds. They roast/fry them in a hot skillet, let them cool and then grind them. The flavor explosion from that little bit of time in the heat is amazing. If you roast them in a little bit of ghee (clarified butter), you're in for a real treat.
Working with seeds and grinding them yourself is ten times better (no make that 100 times better) than buying a bottle of ground coriander in the store. If you have any bottled ground coriander, ask yourself how long you've had it. More than likely, too long and it's dead. All those delicious volatile oils and flavors are gone.
While you're experimenting with coriander seeds, try cumin seeds and fennel seeds, roasting them the same way.
If I knew they’d be so pretty I wouldn’t have plucked all those flowers off my cilantro.
Cilantro is the perfect herb. It gives so much at every stage. From tender leaf to fragrant blossom to crunchy green fresh seeds that finally, sadly, dry. Such specialties that cannot be bought. I love cilantro, and I love the pickled green seeds I make every year.
Michael:
If you're in the area of Great Barrington you should pop over to Columbia County and try out my farm-to-table restaurant, Local 111. (We're closed Tuesdays but open every other day) We're right in the middle of Columbia County. You can walk the 'new' Labyrinth on the Village Green (modeled after the 13th century one in Chartres Cathedral) or go for a hike to see the water fall that helped power Philmont's mills in the 19th century (High Falls). Or just stop off on the way back from Hudson. If you do come by say hello to Josephine, our chef. I'm sure she'll give you some of her fruit sorbet on the house! thanks for such a great blog. Linda G.
donna's sister and neices live in germantown. where's the restaurant?
Last year, I waited until the seeds were dry and then picked, toasted and ground them. I mixed the ground seeds with coarse sea salt and use it to season meats and veggies alike. It took forever to pick all those seeds - they just don't want to let go of the stalks on their own.
I tried your suggestion of picking them fresh last night; I made a "gremolata" of fresh cilantro seeds and leaves, salt, and habanero and sprinkled it over pinto beans and rice. Quite a flavor punch.
Coriander can be hard to get to germinate but letting the ripe seeds fall and self-sow can be highly successful. So, leave some on the plants for the next crop.
I always let some cilantro go to seed. Some I save to grow, and last year I pickled some in the green stage. Raw, they are a different flavor than dried seed, and more lemony than the green herb. To think I only started to like cilantro in the last few years.
fresh coriander's root is also edible and more intensely flavoured than the leaves. can be ground into a paste.
and then ..... how do you use the paste?
Better come see us while you're in town.
How come everyone I know is renting a house with their family right now? I rented a crappy cabin with my in-laws a couple weeks ago, and we cooked, but I'm sure it wasn't anything compared to what you'll be making. Have a great vacation! Also: Coriander is the most beautiful word when spoken with a British accent.
The Berkshires are (is?) God's country indeed. (This might be at least in part because God isn't bothered by mosquitoes.) AMAZING produce at Guido's on Main St. But it's the sort of place where everything looks a bit greener, everything tastes a bit fresher.
I love just picked coriander seeds. They make everything they touch a little brighter and carry the characteristics of the seed and the herb. My favorites were tossing it in a Chinese pork with cashews or a corn salad with avocado... num! Have a great time in Great Barrington... a very charming place!
As summer here on the edge of the Great Salt Lake Desert starts to fade, we sigh with a little relief. Had a touch of fall this week in the mid 60's at night and could open a window and have the A/C off. The few times we have grown cilantro, we get an early bolt with only a few of the lovely peppery bitter leaves that add so much to so many cuisines. Tomatoes, squash, chilies and cucumbers are all coming on at the same time and the herb garden is so big this year it is knocking on the kitchen door! Wish you had some of this bounty to feed those hungry hordes, Michael. Enjoy the cool late summer of New England and may your wine rack be full.
Mine are at the same stage. I think I will let them dry on the stem before harvesting.
linda's restaurant, local 111, is on main street (route 217) in philmont new york, right across from stewart's and the church. sunday mornings, philmont also has a nice (if small) farmer's market, also on main. and if you're going to germantown, rte. 9g is closed and will be for a while... the detour is a doozy, so leave an extra 20 minutes or so.
Sorry to intrude on this post, but from the previous post on pickling, to get back with Marco on the pickled apples, they are great! I use them like pickles and as an addition to any dish, the aroma of the apple is like fresh baked pie and the taste of the apple comes through the salt. Much better than pickles. I have pickled peaches with star anise, cinnamon, garlic, bay and clove, and tried to stuff an onion into a red bell pepper, haven't tried them yet. The apples I used black berry leaves, and tried a few others with fancy spices; garlic, bay, orange, fennel etc. - black berry leaves are the best. Used Ruhlmans 5% and reduced to 3% per chef Pardus - salt was just right. Hope you were not affected by that terrible smoke and heat in Moscow a few days ago, thank you and best to you!
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