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...more travel...

Published: Sep 16, 2008 · Modified: Sep 16, 2008 by Michael Ruhlman · 36 Comments

I had to leave NYC for Napa and work on a cookbook, but will try to put some thoughts down on the Marco White event.  I was expecting a thug savant who was a little full of himself (rightfully so or not), but in fact he was articulate and fascinating and compelling in a way I rarely find chefs anymore.  A delight in fact.  He said things I didn't expect.  We went out after for chicken and carried on the conversation. Then he and his companion headed down to Del Posto (for a 19-course tasting, I hear), Bourdain and the facist went home to the bambina, and I went to drink whiskies with my brother in charcuterie (should we consider a follow up--yea or nay?), enough whiskies that I was thoroughly miserable for the five and a half hours in the air to SFO.  But some of best fried chicken on earth awaited, so all was well. ...more to come...

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Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. French Laundry at Home

    September 16, 2008 at 9:13 pm

    Ad Hoc fried chicken. :::: sigh :::: Jealous.

    Reply
  2. FoodPuta

    September 16, 2008 at 9:14 pm

    You do have to admit, if you followed any of the BBC specials on Ramsay, and they way he followed White around like a puppy dog, White really came across as a bigger-than-life diva.

    Does seem like he knows his chow though.

    Reply
  3. grittybritty

    September 16, 2008 at 10:08 pm

    Please do a follow up! I'm in school at the French Culinary Institute and we've been plowing through your Charcuterie recipes. The Mexican chorizo we made on Monday was the yummiest breakfast this morning! Here's to another book and keeping my fridge full of sausage!

    Reply
  4. Victoria

    September 16, 2008 at 10:24 pm

    I know the weather sucked on Sunday - hot and humid - but glad you ate well (quite an understatement) in NYC.

    Ad hoc fried chicken. Only a dream to me. Sigh.

    Reply
  5. Victoria

    September 16, 2008 at 10:24 pm

    I know the weather sucked on Sunday - hot and humid - but glad you ate well (quite an understatement) in NYC.

    Ad hoc fried chicken. Only a dream to me. Sigh.

    Reply
  6. Keri Alexander Luchowski

    September 16, 2008 at 10:39 pm

    Please do a follow up. I LOVE that book.

    Reply
  7. NYCook

    September 16, 2008 at 11:30 pm

    Bourdain and the facist... Nice touch Ruhlman, anyway as for MPW I highly recomend both his books for reading they are facsinating and to a chef, truly inspiring and motivating. He is truly captivating if you get a chance you tube marco pierre white and watch him in hells kitchen its great stuff. UMMMMM WHISKEY!!!! Just livin the dream, eh Ruhlman? Just livin the dream!

    Reply
  8. Amy

    September 16, 2008 at 11:35 pm

    Followup yea! (not to mention, yay!)

    Reply
  9. swillmonkey

    September 16, 2008 at 11:57 pm

    yeah, ad hoc chicken is good, Hard Knox in SF is better and a fraction of the price. Watch out for the grape trucks, everyone is humping to get harvest over.

    Reply
  10. carri

    September 17, 2008 at 2:39 am

    You had to leave New York City for Napa to work on a book...I want to be you when I grow up!

    Reply
  11. Chris

    September 17, 2008 at 2:50 am

    Tell David Waltuck that he looks like David Gahan.

    Reply
  12. ralph

    September 17, 2008 at 8:29 am

    please follow up. i love marco, and enjoyed reading "the devil in the kitchen". he sounds very passionate about what he does and i encourage anyone to look up his google authors interview on you tube. i would have loved to see a video with you three having a discussion.

    Reply
  13. ntsc

    September 17, 2008 at 8:31 am

    Do a follow up.

    I'm doing two dry cured hams this fall. I would love to see more on dry cured sausage and meats.

    Reply
  14. Todd

    September 17, 2008 at 9:28 am

    A follow-up would be spectacular!

    Reply
  15. Chris Hennes

    September 17, 2008 at 9:42 am

    Please, do a follow up! With more recipes for bratwurst! The CIA's Garde Manger has three or four of them, ya gotta keep up :). And maybe more focus on the complicated stuff: dry curing and cold smoking. Also, more technical detail would be appreciated: we've beat the book to death over at the eGullet forums and need another to feed the charcuterie frenzy.

    Reply
  16. Walt Smith

    September 17, 2008 at 10:07 am

    Hmm...Lets check the celler inventory. 5 sticks of pepperone, 2 proscuitto. 2 breseola and a salami....yep, I've got room, bring on the sequel.

    I'd love to see a recipe for a good corned ham and a recipe for Bandiera sausage. And lets throw in a Spanish Morcilla for good measure.

    Oh God, I hope your serious, after eating all this meat, my heart can't take any teasing.

    Reply
  17. beaniegrrl

    September 17, 2008 at 11:06 am

    The facist?

    And I bought Charcuterie for my father-in-law, in celebration of his new smoker. We haven't seen him since.

    Reply
  18. madeleine

    September 17, 2008 at 11:11 am

    Oh my goodness. I am so excited that I stumbled across your blog. I have been a huge fan of yours ever since I read “House.”

    In fact, I picked that book up off of a pile of books in my family’s crumbling cabin in Northern Michigan, and tucked into it with a sense of glee and comaraderie (in addition to having the ancient cabin, my partner and I own a creaky ex-crackhouse bungalow in Florida we are rescuing one-project-at-a-time).

    House woes aside, I really appreciate your writing because it is both immediate and accessible, while being utterly informed. And the fact that you are living in Cleveland (the town I grew up in) just ads to my fondness for a person I have never met.

    Keep writing, I’ll keep reading, and your Samuel Clemens-esque “rivalry” with Bourdain is hilarious...very well played.

    Reply
  19. madeleine

    September 17, 2008 at 11:17 am

    *and* you go to the same farmer's market my mother does. I am probably the only person you will ever meet who says thinking about Cleveland makes me happy...

    Reply
  20. mike pardus

    September 17, 2008 at 11:51 am

    OK, shameless, self-promoting plug -

    I have not had a chance to eat Ad Hoc's Fried chicken yet, but I have recently scored a "personal best" in that arena. You can check out the recipe and the story behind it at Bob DelGrosso's "A Hunger Artist". Here's the link:

    http://ahungerartist.bobdelgrosso.com/2008/08/days-pass-slowly-and-leisurely-in-one.html

    Reply
  21. Marlene

    September 17, 2008 at 12:00 pm

    I really need to get to Napa and Keller's restaurants one of these days. Colour me jealous!

    Reply
  22. J

    September 17, 2008 at 12:01 pm

    so many chickens...so little time.

    Reply
  23. Bob delGrosso

    September 17, 2008 at 12:33 pm

    "and compelling in a way I rarely find chefs anymore."

    Compel this (envision middle finger pointed at you) Ruhlman.

    Chef Bob del Grosso 🙂

    Reply
  24. Bob delGrosso

    September 17, 2008 at 12:34 pm

    "and compelling in a way I rarely find chefs anymore."

    Compel this (envision middle finger pointed at you) Ruhlman.

    Chef Bob del Grosso 🙂

    Reply
  25. corybarrett

    September 17, 2008 at 12:49 pm

    its said that possibly the best fried chicken is the tea brined batch they put out at Mr Sam Beall's Blackberry Farm (not ruby tuesday).

    Reply
  26. Zach

    September 17, 2008 at 3:18 pm

    I demand a Charcuterie follow up.

    Reply
  27. Jon in Albany

    September 17, 2008 at 10:14 pm

    It's not nice to tease. Yes, do a follow-up.

    Can I pre-order at Amazon yet?

    Reply
  28. Salty Dog

    September 17, 2008 at 11:37 pm

    In the google "chefs" interview he seemed to answer all the questions with the same answer. "Let the food speak to you!" "Who was your mentor?" "Let the food speak to you!" "Talk about your food". "You have to let the food speak to you". I guess that's every Chef's secret dream. Become a fat cat, just point and pay. Live on your reputation.

    Well, for some anyway.

    Reply
  29. Greely

    September 18, 2008 at 12:27 am

    Michael,

    Is this going to be another cookbook with Thomas Keller by chance?

    "The greatest failure is the failure to try."

    Greely

    Reply
  30. chadzilla

    September 18, 2008 at 9:42 am

    Cannot wait for your additional comments on the discussion panel. I also wish that you would have heard Chef Grant Achatz's response to some of the words of Chef White. The passion in his words put a lump in my throat as he defended the true 'craft' of what he does (multi-course tasting menu to those who weren't there). I actually have it on camcorder video and would be happy to mail you a copy if you desire.
    What I would really like to know is why the 2 of you (especially Bourdain who is never restricted with words) said nothing in defense of the tasting menu?
    It was summed up in a former El Bulli stages comment to Chef Achatz on Tuesday... she said she was working at El Bulli when Bourdain did his 'Decoding Ferran' documentary and he seemed to be overly enjoying himself. Why not defend that... even in a brief closing statement?
    Please consider that I state these words with full respect to Chef White who is an icon (and who also was going against the grain of the culinary scene in his heyday). I would still consider it an honor to have my ass kicked by Chef White in the kitchen. I know I would be a better chef for it.

    Reply
  31. Elisa

    September 18, 2008 at 6:03 pm

    I am just now reading The Devil in the Kitchen. Going into it, I knew very little about Marco other than how he was one of the best chefs of his time but also sort of out of control. I am only halfway through the book, but I'm not getting the "out of control" part at all! In fact, he seems to be quite a disciplined individual. I know he worked with a writer on the book, but he seems very articulate and well spoken (or written, I guess). I mean, he's not a writer but he does well for someone without that background. It's interesting to hear that your opinion of him over the weekend was similar. I wonder if mine will change at all as I finish the book.

    Reply
  32. luis

    September 18, 2008 at 11:13 pm

    Outstanding Rhulman, thanks for sharing the Kellerman recipe for fried chicken. Got it. I will try it soon.

    Reply
  33. Aaron

    September 19, 2008 at 1:14 am

    A follow up to Charcuterie? Zomg in heaven. Oh and madeleine...I too think of Cleveland and smile. In fact I miss it terribly...even the gray slush. Oh to be able to eat at Tommy's anytime I wanted again.

    Reply
  34. Brian

    September 19, 2008 at 8:47 am

    Ruhlman...please do more than just consider a follow up you guys should jump on this right away 🙂

    Seriously this book introduced me to a whole new world of culinary adventure that I would not have otherwise encountered. I think you can count on your readers/bloggers to help you evangalize the product!

    Cheers,
    Brian

    Reply
  35. Samantha

    September 19, 2008 at 1:20 pm

    Another 'yea' vote for a Charcuterie follow up. As a book store owner who sells only titles related to food I can tell you that the first one you wrote flies out the door, we can barely keep it in stock. Then we get requests for more, because they all have the first one. There is a definite hunger for more information on this subject.
    So, YES, please give us another book on charcuterie, we will sell the &%^%$ out of it...

    Reply
  36. Jürgen

    September 29, 2008 at 4:36 pm

    Yes, we all need a follow up.

    Thanks for the fried chicken. It looks great. I will test it tomorrow.

    Reply

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